Argentina iPhone Apps Worth Checking Out

I still enjoy thumbing through the paper editions of travel guides, but there's no doubt that technology has ushered in a new era of trip planning and research. Travel-focused apps often provide access to in-depth information about places that traditional guidebooks barely even mention, and without the constraints of traditional publishing, they can be updated on a more frequent basis as well. You can carry around the equivalent of hundreds of paper guidebooks right there on your lightweight mobile device, another distinct advantage of going digital, especially if you're visiting multiple cities and/or countries. Lastly, the accessible price points of these mobile applications make them hard to resist!

But like everything else, not all apps are created equal. So, today I'd like to recommend a pair of quality, Argentina-related apps, both of which I have personally tested on my iPod touch. These apps function on the iPhone, iPod touch or iPad.

Recoleta Cemetery by Endless Mile
Author: Robert Wright
Price: $5.99

Recoleta Cemetery contains more than just a collection of ornate mausoleums; it contains the history of a nation. "Thanks to its occupants and their eternal sense of style," the cemetery figures prominently on the list of Buenos Aires' must-see attractions. With Endless Mile's Recoleta Cemetery app, you're free to tour the cemetery and take it all in at your own pace.

Truthfully, I can't imagine anyone other than Robert Wright authoring an app about the cemetery. I've been following Robert's blog Afterlife—the definitive English-language resource for information about Recoleta Cemetery—for years now, and his attention to detail, enviable research skills and passion for history have always impressed me. He's managed to condense the wealth of information accumulated in his blog into a slick, well-organized app highlighting the 25 most interesting mausoleums plus the meaning of common funerary symbols and a general overview of the cemetery.

A virtual map leads you through the cemetery to the tombs of some of Argentina's elite. At each point on the route you gain insight into Recoleta's incredible architecture, historical figures and urban legends through text presented with beautiful photos and illustrations. Fans of Evita, the cemetery's most famous resident, will even find a section of the app dedicated to her.

While I fully recommend the mobile app, Robert packs even more information into his 22-page Recoleta Cemetery PDF guide ($9.95). I suggest this option for those with unlimited time to explore and an intense interest in the cemetery's history, since the PDF guide details information about 70 different tombs. The PDF is also the way to go if you'd prefer to print out the guide to carry with you or if you don't own an Apple device.

Argentina Travel Adventures by Sutro Media
Author: Wayne Bernhardson
Price: $2.99

As the man behind the blog Southern Cone Travel and author of Moon Handbooks for Argentina, Buenos Aires and Patagonia, Wayne Bernhardson is eminently qualified to tackle Argentina "from the top to the tip, the city to the campo." The writing featured in the Argentina Travel Adventures app truly reflects Wayne's years of travel experience and knowledge. In addition to information about major attractions, the app offers practical information and cultural tidbits touching upon food, transportation, culture, and health and safety.

The app includes a number of attractive photos, most of which were provided by the author. They look good on the iPod touch, but I imagine they really shine on the larger display of the iPad. An interactive map with markers allows you to visualize each of the recommended spots, and you're able to conveniently filter results by category. You can even ask the author questions or suggest additional information about an attraction. How's that for interactivity?

The app is useful and well-designed, but it only scratches the surface, providing a brief overview of Argentina's most popular destinations. Each entry gives you just enough information to pique your interest. If you're looking to explore second-tier cities or locations off the beaten path, I'd consider a different resource; however, for first-time visitors or those sticking to the main tourist circuit, I think Argentina Travel Adventures more than fits the bill.

Have you tried either of these apps? Can you recommend other useful Argentina-focused apps?

Disclosure: Although Robert Wright and Wayne Bernhardson both provided complimentary downloads of their apps, the opinions expressed here are strictly my own.

[Photo credit: Tony Buser]

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Home for the Holidays

Reflecting on this past year, I must say that 2011 has treated me quite well. I got married to my wonderful husband Daniel; I successfully waded through Argentine bureaucracy to receive my permanent residency and DNI; and now, I have the joy of celebrating Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's with Daniel and my family here in my hometown of Philadelphia.

After 24 hours of travel, we arrived at Philadelphia International Airport last Thursday morning and were promptly whisked away by my dad and his wife. From that moment on, our time has been filled with family, friends, and food, and it feels great to be back in Yanquilandia, even if only for a brief time.

This trip is particularly special because it's Daniel's first visit to the United States. It means so much to me that he finally has the opportunity to get acquainted with the place I grew up, my family, and my culture. I always felt that there was a piece of me that he would never fully know or understand until he could experience my country firsthand, so it brings me enormous pleasure to have him here with me.

I'm incredibly grateful for all that I've been blessed with this past year. Now excuse me—I've got some turkey, stuffing, cranberries and pumpkin pie to eat. Happy Thanksgiving!

[Photo credit: dracobotanicus]

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Past reflections on Thanksgiving

2010 Grateful
2009 Let's Talk Turkey (or Lack Thereof)
2008 Thankful

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Flights Resume Between Necochea and Buenos Aires

Necochea, you're now cleared for takeoff. After a two-year service disruption, flights between Buenos Aires and Necochea are slated to resume within the next few weeks. Earlier this month, Necochea's mayor, Daniel Molina, signed an agreement with regional airline LAER [Líneas Aéreas de Entre Ríos] to link Aeroparque "Jorge Newbery" in Buenos Aires with Necochea's municipal airfield.

Each flight will accommodate a maximum of 18 passengers. For the time being, the company plans to offer two flights per day on Mondays and Fridays, every week, but the possibility of Wednesday flights will be considered as well.

Tickets will be sold at a cost of $480 pesos, about US $115 at the current exchange rate.

Flights between Buenos Aires and Necochea have been grounded since March 2009, when regional carrier Sol Líneas Aéreas suspended service. Visitors and local residents will once again have the quick—albeit pricey—option of air travel to and from Necochea.

Aeródromo de Necochea
Address: Ruta 86 Km 12.5, Quequén
Phone: (02262) 42-2473

Sources: Informe Digital and La Tecla [both in Spanish]
[Photo credit: simounef]

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Updated on April 14, 2012: According to an article on NecocheaNet [in Spanish], service to Buenos Aires will finally begin on May 8, 2012. LAER will be offering one flight on Tuesday morning and another on Thursday afternoon. Tickets will be sold at a cost of $550 pesos, one-way. Read More......

Food and Friends in Buenos Aires

A little over a month ago, I tagged along with my husband on a brief trip to Buenos Aires. Anxious to return to Necochea, Daniel headed home as soon as he finished his business in the capital; however, I stuck around a few extra days to soak up a bit of culture, indulge a few food cravings, and meet up with some friends.

Fortunately, just before Daniel hopped a bus back to Necochea, we were able to take a stroll through the neighborhood of Recoleta and sit down to lunch together. Located just down the street from Recoleta Cemetery, the neighborhood eatery Rodi Bar offers a low-key option in the midst of high-rent Recoleta. You're unlikely to experience a culinary epiphany at Rodi Bar, but you're guaranteed honest, Argentine classics done well and at reasonable prices. Afterward, we relaxed on a bench in Plaza Francia in the shade of a giant gomero, as some energetic pups played fetch nearby with their owners and a man sang and strummed Argentine folk songs on his guitar.

My first night in town, chef and food blogger Dan Perlman invited me to join him for dinner at Cocina Sunae, a closed-door restaurant focused on Southeast Asian cuisine. Christina Sunae, an Asian-American expat, runs this underground resto out of her home located in the quiet residential neighborhood of Colegiales. The beautifully-presented dishes featured ingredients and inspiration from Thailand, Vietnam and the Philippines, infused with both fresh and spicy flavors. Each course hit all the right notes, and this meal drove home just how much I miss Asian cuisine! Dan presents a full write-up of our dining experience  and all the dishes on his blog SaltShaker. I highly recommend dinner at Cocina Sunae, especially if you're an ethnic-food-starved expat like I am.

I stayed at the home of my lovely friend and talented photographer Beatrice Murch and her husband Kragen, who were both guests at our wedding back in March. One night, Beatrice and I took our hunger to Desnivel, a traditional parrilla (steakhouse) in the neighborhood of San Telmo. Desnivel's tired décor, plastic tablecloths and garish fluorescent lighting clearly signal one thing: it's all about the meat. We split an order of provoleta, bife de chorizo and papas fritas a la provenzal. The provoleta could have used a touch more time on the grill, as it didn't turn out as gooey as it should have, but the smoky, slightly-melted cheese tasted wonderful nonetheless. The steak arrived just as we'd ordered it, perfectly a punto (medium). Sprinkled with parsley, garlic and oil, the ample portion of fries was crispy and flavorful. Although Desnivel's waiters have a reputation for being rather gruff, the service proved to be pleasant and efficient. With great food at affordable prices, I'd definitely head back to Desnivel.

I hadn't seen Cherie Magnus of tangocherie since my last visit to Buenos Aires back in January, so we decided to get caught up over lunch one afternoon at Las Violetas in Almagro. Built during the 1920s, this elegant café filled with stained glass windows, dark wood paneling, Italian marble flooring and white-jacketed waiters transported me to another time. Following its declaration as a historic site by the City of Buenos Aires in 1998, Las Violetas underwent a massive restoration. The hard work and investment really shows.

A bit overwhelmed by the extensive lunch menu, I settled on one of the chef's specials: stuffed chicken breast with cider sauce and noisette potatoes. My entrée delivered on taste, but dessert – a rich, warm apple strudel with vanilla ice cream and dulce de leche – won me over in the end. I would love to return to Las Violetas, but next time I'll go for afternoon tea instead of lunch to capitalize on the café's strength: its desserts and pastries.

The following afternoon, I got off the train at the Belgrano C station, where I found myself on the doorstep of Buenos Aires' Chinatown. Allie Lazar, from the irreverent food blog Pick Up The Fork, and I had agreed to meet at her favorite spot for Chinese food, Hong Kong Style.

While waiting for Allie, I happened to bump into Christina Sunae and her husband at Hong Kong Style. The two were surrounded by a number of tantalizing small plates, the sight of which literally made my mouth water. Christina noted that the restaurant is one of the best spots for Asian food in the city and really the only place where you can order dim sum. While chatting, I found out that Christina and her husband have friends in the neighboring city of Quequén, so I hope to see them in my neck of the woods some time. Although the couple graciously invited Allie and I to join them, we left them to finish their meal in peace.

Enticed by the sneak preview of the dim sum menu at Christina's table, Allie and I ordered two types of dim sum (steamed pork and shrimp dumplings) and spring rolls, which turned out to be filled with ground beef and onion (!). The dumplings hit the spot, but the spring rolls, while tasty, were a letdown. In retrospect, I'm not sure why we ordered so little food, but I wish we would have shared at least one more dish. Next time, I'd skip the spring rolls and order another type of dim sum and/or an entrée to share.

After lunch, we zipped past the various hole-in-the-wall shops filled with cheap and cheerful Asian imports for some shopping at a couple of the neighborhood's food markets. The markets of Barrio Chino not only house aisle upon aisle of noodles, condiments, exotic vegetables, and spices – ingredients to make every type of Asian cuisine – but they also contain some of the most sought after imported foods by yanquis. You'll find Heinz ketchup, peanut butter, Dijon mustard, Worcestershire sauce, fancy teas, tahini paste, curry powders, hard taco shells, and all manner of seafood. The Chinese don't discriminate; if they think someone will buy it, they stock it. And buy, I did. With my arms full of purchases and my wallet decidedly empty, Allie and I parted ways after a very enjoyable afternoon.

On my final day in the capital, I lunched at Pasaje Solar, a charming spot in San Telmo, for Beatrice's birthday. I had the opportunity to share the meal with Ande Wanderer of Wander Argentina, Amy Scott of Nomadtopia, and Cate Kelly, all of whom made excellent dining companions. We were initially seated outdoors on the rustic patio under a tangle of angel's trumpet and wisteria vine, but we were forced inside when it began to shower. Thankfully, the vibe indoors felt just as inviting. The menu offered a number of interesting options, and truthfully, everyone's meal looked tempting. I ordered rich and flavorful pumpkin sorrentinos stuffed with walnuts, green onions and mozzarella in a cream sauce. After polishing off this generous portion of pasta, all I had room for was an espresso with a dash of milk to cap off the meal.

Following lunch and great conversation with the ladies, I moseyed up and down Calle Defensa eyeing the wares on display at the mega street fair known as the Feria de San Telmo. I picked up a few nice items including a leather belt, crocheted scarf, and a necklace, all at decent prices. I even scored a beef burrito from a Mexican street vendor named Luis, complete with salsa picante that actually packed a bit of a punch. Disappointingly, the best part of the burrito turned out to be the hot sauce. Buenos Aires, however, is definitely not short on flavor.

[Photo credits: Christina Sunae of Cocina Sunae, jlaceda]

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Rodi Bar, Vicente López 1900, Recoleta
Cocina Sunae, Colegiales [exact address confirmed at time of reservation]
Hong Kong Style, Montañeses 2149, Barrio Chino, Belgrano
Desnivel, Defensa 855, San Telmo
Las Violetas, Rivadavia 3899, Almagro
Pasaje Solar, Balcarce 1024, San Telmo
Feria de San Telmo, Calle Defensa, San Telmo – Sundays from 10am-5pm

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Patagonia From My Window

I'll wrap up my series of posts about Patagonia with images instead of words. Let's look out the window of the bus as the scenery rolls past. Goodbye for now, Bariloche.

[Near El Anfiteatro (The Amphitheater)]

[Poplar trees (álamos) lined up along the Río Limay]

[This photo and the following two feature Valle Encantado (Enchanted Valley), an area dotted by volcanic rock formations, located about 40 miles northeast of Bariloche along the Río Limay.]

[This photo and the last one show rock formations visible from the highway in the small town of Piedra del Águila.]

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Enjoy the previous posts in my Patagonia series:
Back from the Wilds of Northern Patagonia
Bariloche: Circuito Chico and Cerro Catedral
Bariloche: Lago Moreno, Bosque de Arrayanes and Isla Victoria
Bariloche: Cascada Los Alerces and Cerro Tronador
Lakes Crossing: Bariloche to Puerto Varas
Exploring Puerto Varas, Chile
Bariloche: Cerro Otto

Visit my Patagonia sets here and here for more photos on Flickr.

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Bariloche: Cerro Otto

With just one morning left to enjoy the town of Bariloche and its surroundings, my travel companions and I opted to visit the nearby peak known as Cerro Otto.

Cerro Otto (4610 ft./1405 m) is named for Otto Goedecke, one of the first European settlers in this area. Goedecke, originally from Germany, arrived in Bariloche in 1892 and settled on roughly 600 acres (250 hectares) at the foot of the mountain that would later bear his name. He raised numerous crops and animals on his land until his untimely death in the 1920s, when he was murdered at the hands of an apple thief. Learn more about Cerro Otto and its namesake [link in Spanish].

In 1930, Goedecke's countryman Otto Meiling made Cerro Otto his home. Meiling – a nature-lover, skiing enthusiast, and something of a hermit – lived up on the mountain, strapping on his cross-country skis in winter whenever he needed to go into town. He built both his home and a mountaineering shelter, Refugio Berghof [link in Spanish], on the slopes of Cerro Otto. The mountain played host to the first ski school in South America, where Meiling gave classes and hand manufactured skis.

We took the easy way out and ascended Cerro Otto aboard aerial cable cars made, not so surprisingly, in Austria. In just 12 minutes, we were whisked from the foot of the mountain to its summit, enjoying a wide-open view of Lago Nahuel Huapi and the city of Bariloche below.

[View of Cerro Otto from the base of the mountain]

[Vince, my stepdad, enjoying the aerial cable car ride]

As we stood admiring the view and trying to do it justice through the lenses of our cameras, we noticed a group busily arranging some sort of lines and parachutes. Some minutes later, as a pair leapt off the face of the mountain into the wide expanse of nothingness, we realized that they were tandem paragliders.

[Lago Nahuel Huapi from atop Cerro Otto]

[Here's where my sister Marianna and I pretend to fall off the mountain (moments of silliness are important, you know). The imposing ridgeline of the mountain behind us belongs to Cerro Catedral.]

There's actually quite a bit to do up there on the mountain besides jumping off of it. Cerro Otto offers hiking trails, mountain biking, and horseback riding; cross country skiing, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling in winter; a revolving café with 360º views of the breathtaking landscape; and even a modest art gallery. Since we were pressed for time, we didn't take advantage of any of the outdoor activities, although I did hike the trails with Daniel when I visited previously.

[Cerro Tronador (the snow-capped peak) visible in the distance]

[Click here to enlarge this panoramic photo taken from Cerro Otto.]

It's a well-known fact that the mountain air makes you hungry, so we claimed a table in the revolving café to continue enjoying the view while tucking into our final meal of the trip. [Check out this cool time-lapse video taken from the revolving café.] A few spins in the café and one sandwich de milanesa later, I packed up my camera and said goodbye to Bariloche…and my family.

[Time to head back down the mountain]

View photos of my previous visit to Cerro Otto with Daniel in 2008.

Next up…the final installment: Patagonia From My Window

[Patagonia Series: Intro 1 2 3 4 5 6]

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Exploring Puerto Varas, Chile

Fresh off our epic journey from Bariloche to Puerto Varas by boat and by bus, my travel companions were in no great hurry to start the day. And so, I lay there in bed, with just a sliver of light penetrating the window's heavy drapes, listening to the hum of my stepdad's CPAP machine and my little sister's heavy breathing.

After what seemed like an eternity, the two finally began to stir, and once I had confirmed signs of life from my roommates, I excitedly flung open the curtains for my first glimpse of the mighty Osorno Volcano in full daylight, only to discover that the view to the lake was completely blotted out by a dense fog.

*          *          *          *          *

I stared out the massive plate glass window into an impenetrable wall of white as I sat in the hotel's breakfast room, trying to visualize the snow-capped volcano I had glimpsed last evening. As I lamented the lack of a view, our server provided consolation, noting that as the sun rose higher, the fog would burn off, revealing the shimmering waters of the lake and the two volcanoes along its shores.

Having filled our bellies at the breakfast buffet, we consulted with a helpful young woman at the hotel reception desk regarding our plans for the rest of the morning. Armed with a hand-drawn map, we set off on foot across town to the Puerto Varas bus station to secure seats for our trip back to Bariloche.

The city of Puerto Varas lies on the shores of Chile's second largest lake, Lago Llanquihue, the product of glacial activity evident throughout Patagonia. We skirted the lake along a pathway for some 15 minutes, and then we hung a left and continued our hike uphill through town to the bus station.

*          *          *          *          *

With three bus fares in hand, we took our time walking back to the hotel, exploring the side streets and loosely following the trail leading to a number of Puerto Varas' historic homes built by the first German immigrants who arrived in the mid-1800s.

Settled by German-speaking peoples from Austria, Switzerland, the Alsace region of France, and Germany, Puerto Varas – and much of Southern Chile – reflects the heritage of its founders through its architecture and gastronomic offerings.

Take a virtual tour of the historic homes of Puerto Varas, Chile.

We also had the opportunity to admire the Parroquia Sagrado Corazón de Jesús (Sacred Heart of Jesus Church). Built between 1915 and 1918, the church is styled after the famed Marienkirche in the Black Forest region of Germany. The church sits perched on a high point overlooking the downtown area and the lake, with Volcán Osorno towering in the distance.

[Parroquia Sagrado Corazón de Jesús]

By the time we had meandered back to our hotel, the dense fog had all but disappeared, save for a thin blanket that hovered at the base of the Osorno Volcano.

The neighboring Calbuco Volcano made itself visible as well, having thrown off its cloak of mist.

Both Osorno and Calbuco are active volcanoes, but thankfully, the two remained quiet for the duration of our brief visit. Nonetheless, volcanic and seismic activity occurs frequently in Chile, as evidenced by the Chaitén eruption in 2008 and the 8.8 magnitude Bio-Bio earthquake that occurred just last year.

Unfortunately, our time in this picturesque city was cut short, as we had an early afternoon bus to catch for the six-hour ride from Puerto Varas back to Bariloche.

On board the bus, the hours passed quickly, as the extraordinary scenery provided by the dense forests and towering mountains of the cordillera kept us entertained for the length of the trip.

And just to spice things up, there were even a few moments that got my blood pumping, what with the bus careening down winding Andean roads at speeds that felt just a bit too daring, as big rigs lumbered up the mountainside in the opposing lane.

We stopped briefly in the town of Osorno at the bustling bus station, where my sister and I were assaulted by a gaggle of Chilean ladies trying to sell us sandwiches and some sorry-looking empanadas for the road. And of course, we were obligated to hop off the bus at the border crossing in the middle of nowhere to be uneventfully stamped out of Chile and into Argentina by stern-faced border officials.

But before we knew it, we'd returned to Bariloche, where our odyssey began just the day before.

Next up: Bariloche: Cerro Otto

[Patagonia Series: Intro 1 2 3 4 5]

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Lakes Crossing: Bariloche to Puerto Varas

The Cruce Andino/Cruce de los Lagos or Lakes Crossing, a marathon boat-bus-boat-bus-boat-bus ride from Bariloche, Argentina to Puerto Varas (or Puerto Montt), Chile took the entire day and substantially lightened my wallet, but the experience, in my opinion, was worth every peso and then some. We made the voyage across the Andes on Easter Sunday, which turned out to be a fitting date for the tour, as I was continually reminded by my surroundings that only a divine hand could have wrought the spectacular natural beauty we saw that day.

In the faint morning light, we set sail from Puerto Pañuelo in Bariloche. After discussing the details of the day's itinerary with one of the tour coordinators, we ordered a few medialunas and cups of hot chocolate from the boat's snack bar. Vince, my stepdad, and I climbed the stairs to the upper deck, where we marveled at the mountains looming on all sides of the expansive Lago Nahuel Huapi, while my sister Marianna snoozed down below in typical teenage fashion.

[Vince on the first leg of the journey over Lago Nahuel Huapi – Puerto Pañuelo to Puerto Blest]

[Signpost at Puerto Blest]

We stopped at Puerto Blest with its lovely pink hotel [photo] for a few minutes before boarding a bus to Puerto Alegre, just 15 minutes away.

The early morning temperatures in Bariloche hovered around the freezing mark, and we were cautioned by the crew to watch our step as we boarded our second boat at Puerto Alegre, as patches of ice had accumulated on the deck.

[Cerro Tronador reflected in the waters of Lago Frías – Puerto Alegre to Puerto Frías leg]

The boat glided over the milky green waters of Lago Frías en route to our next destination. The lake's unique color, which can be appreciated in the photo below, comes from minerals suspended in the water.

[Thank goodness we didn't have to row all the way to Chile – rowboat outside of the border checkpoint at Puerto Frías, Argentina]

After exchanging some Argentine pesos for Chilean ones, we were successfully stamped out of Argentina at the Puerto Frías border checkpoint before continuing our journey by bus. The actual Argentina-Chile border crossing at Paso Vicente Pérez Rosales is located deep within the Patagonian forest with nary an official in sight.

[Vince and Marianna saying "chau" to Argentina and "hola" to Chile!]

[Cerro Tronador from the Chilean side – Puerto Frías, Argentina to Peulla, Chile leg]

The bus ride from Puerto Frías to Peulla through the national parks (Nahuel Huapi in Argentina and Vicente Pérez Rosales in Chile) offered fantastic vistas of the forest, the Andes, several small waterfalls, and the Río Peulla.

[The village of Peulla, Chile]

*We now interrupt this regularly scheduled blog post for a public service announcement.*

How My Stepdad Almost Caused an International Incident

The only hitch we experienced the entire day came when we passed through the border checkpoint in Peulla, Chile. Marianna was first up to the plate with the stern-looking Chilean carabinero. She presented her passport to the officer and waited patiently as he reviewed the details on her photo page. The officer looked up from the passport, unsmiling, and asked in broken English if Marianna knew how to speak Spanish. She shook her head no and beckoned to me for assistance.

The officer asked whom Marianna was traveling with, and I replied, "Her father and me – her sister."

"And her mother? Where is she?"

"She died almost four years ago."

"Do you have proof of that?"

I turned to Vince and asked him if he just so happened to be carrying a copy of my mother's death certificate. The obvious reply came, and I responded with a tinge of worry in my voice, "No, I don't."

After establishing that we didn't have any other documentation such as a birth certificate or consent form for international travel with a minor (Vince had traveled several times before with Marianna, and no one had ever asked him for such proof), the carabineros made us sweat it out as they busily typed away at their antiquated computers.

A few minutes later, having somehow determined that, indeed, my stepdad was not attempting to abduct his own child from his deceased wife, they waved Marianna on through, followed by me and then Vince. We were lucky this time, but we easily could have been denied entry into Chile. For the record, Argentine border officials never requested any sort of documentation to this effect.

Moral of the Story

Minors traveling internationally with just one parent should carry a notarized document granting written permission from the other parent. In the case where the parents are divorced or one parent is deceased, the traveling parent should carry a notarized affidavit of sole custody and legal proof such as a death certificate or custody order.

OK, now back  to pretty photos of flowers, glacial lakes, and snowy volcanoes.

[Flowers in Peulla, Chile]

After (barely) getting stamped into Chile, we sat down to lunch at the Hotel Natura, whose dining room features floor-to-ceiling windows with views of the surrounding meadow and mountains. Following our meal, we set out on foot to take in the scenery and shoot some photos before the next leg of our journey, a ride on a catamaran that would take us past not one, but two, volcanoes.

[More boats!]

[Cascada de los Novios, Peulla, Chile]

[The dock in Peulla, Chile]

[Chilean flag with the Andes Mountains and Lago Todos Los Santos serving as the backdrop – Peulla to Petrohué leg]

[Volcán Puntiagudo (at right), Lago Todos Los Santos, Chile]

[House on the shores of Lago Todos Los Santos, Chile]

The people who make their homes along the shores of this lake lead a life of relative isolation. As there is no road between Peulla and Petrohué, anyone living in the area must rely on boats as the principal means of transportation. A couple of passengers used our catamaran as a sort of water taxi to get them close to their homes. A pair of smaller motorboats pulled alongside, and the passengers hopped off and went on their way!

[Volcán Osorno (at left) by the shores of Lago Todos Los Santos]

After the breathtaking views along Lago Todos Los Santos, we disembarked at Petrohué for the final leg of our day-long adventure through Patagonia. We boarded a bus bound for Puerto Varas, and we zipped alongside the Río Petrohué and dense forest before the majestic Volcán Osorno and the neighboring Volcán Calbuco came into view. We hugged the shores of Lago Llanquihué as we sped toward the city of Puerto Varas with nightfall fast approaching, and the snowcapped peak of Osorno glowed in the evening light.

[Volcán Osorno by the shores of Lago Llanquihué, on the final leg from Petrohué to Puerto Varas, Chile]

About 12 hours after leaving Bariloche, we arrived at our hotel in Puerto Varas. I slept like a Patagonian rock that night.

Next up: Puerto Varas, Chile

[Patagonia Series: Intro 1 2 3 4]

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