Seashells and Sunflowers | Necochea, Argentina

Showing posts with label transportation. Show all posts

Getting a Driver's License in Argentina

When I moved to Argentina six years ago, what initially kept me from driving was the chaotic mix of stray animals, motorcyclists, bicyclists and pedestrians coupled with a flagrant disregard for basic traffic laws on the part of many (most?) drivers. Eventually that chaos became the new norm, yet something else even greater was holding me back. I didn't know how to drive stick shift. My husband gave me lessons, dutifully taking me out to practice on the dusty back roads bordering the fields of sunflowers and soy, but I never quite got the hang of it. So even though I'd been driving since the age of 17, I reluctantly gave up my independence, settling—albeit temporarily—for the passenger seat. Finally, after years of being chauffeured around Necochea by my family and friends, I saved up the money to buy a car with automatic transmission (no easy feat in Argentina, where the overwhelming majority of cars for sale have a manual transmission).

With the keys to my new ride in hand, I set my sights on completing another expat rite of passage: applying for a driver's license. As a tourist, foreign drivers are free to roam the mean streets of Argentina with an international driving permit and a valid foreign license; however, residents must obtain an Argentine driver's license. (Note: Foreigners cannot apply for a driver's license without a DNI.)

The information provided here is valid for those applying for a driver's license in the province of Buenos Aires. Please note that my experience in Necochea may be different from yours. The requirements for residents of the city of Buenos Aires and other provinces vary. If you're looking to obtain your license in Capital Federal, the blog Discover Buenos Aires has a very informative post.

Process for Obtaining an Argentine Driver's License (Province of Buenos Aires)

1. Schedule an appointment. Although some municipalities have an online system for appointments, here in Necochea, you have to do it the old-fashioned way by going in person. I went to the Oficina de Licencias de Conducir, Dirección de Seguridad Pública, and I was given an appointment for almost three weeks later. I was also handed a list of the required items that I would need to present at the time of my appointment.

Requirements for Argentine Driver's License (Province of Buenos Aires)

DNI booklet (not card) plus two photocopies of pages 2, 3, and 8
Proof of blood type (I used my American Red Cross blood donor card)
Two completed medical forms (Declaración Jurada de Salud), available for purchase at a nearby kiosk
Municipal fee ($120 in Necochea, price varies by municipality), pay in advance of appointment and bring proof of payment
Valid foreign driver's license plus a photocopy of your license

Also, in anticipation of your appointment, take some time to prepare for the written driver's exam (you can purchase a hard copy of the practice questions for a small fee or take a practice test online for free).

2. Check in. On the day of my appointment, I returned to the Oficina de Licencias de Conducir where I waited for my name to be called. I was led back to a desk and asked to present my paperwork, DNI, etc., (all of the items listed above). Next, my photo and fingerprints were taken, and I was asked to provide a digital signature. After reviewing and signing a print-out with my information, I was directed to wait until called for the vision test. I was given my paperwork to take with me.

3. Take vision test. I was asked to identify three letters on an eye chart, and I was given two pieces of paper to add to my collection of forms. The end.

4. Pay provincial fee. Payment of the provincial fee ($173) must be made at Banco Provincia or, in Necochea, at the Cámara de Comercio. I added these receipts to the pile of paperwork and forged ahead.

5. Take written exam. In Necochea, the written exam is given at the Departamento de Tránsito, across town from where my adventure began. Here I was asked to present all of my paperwork and my foreign driver's license. In some municipalities the test is computerized, but not in Necochea. The exam consisted of 56 multiple-choice questions in Spanish about the rules of the road, plus 16 questions, also multiple choice, about street signs. I passed with flying colors and was given a date to pick up my license. I was not required to take a road test, presumably because I was already a licensed driver in another country.

6. Pick up license. My license was available for pick-up at the Oficina de Licencias de Conducir about one week later.

So, now I've officially joined the ranks of the crazies, striking fear in the hearts of pedestrians and stray dogs all over Necochea, and I’ve rediscovered the joy of driving…Argentine style.

[Image credit: Agencia Nacional de Seguridad Vial]

Flights Resume Between Necochea and Buenos Aires

Necochea, you're now cleared for takeoff. After a two-year service disruption, flights between Buenos Aires and Necochea are slated to resume within the next few weeks. Earlier this month, Necochea's mayor, Daniel Molina, signed an agreement with regional airline LAER [Líneas Aéreas de Entre Ríos] to link Aeroparque "Jorge Newbery" in Buenos Aires with Necochea's municipal airfield.

Each flight will accommodate a maximum of 18 passengers. For the time being, the company plans to offer two flights per day on Mondays and Fridays, every week, but the possibility of Wednesday flights will be considered as well.

Tickets will be sold at a cost of $480 pesos, about US $115 at the current exchange rate.

Flights between Buenos Aires and Necochea have been grounded since March 2009, when regional carrier Sol Líneas Aéreas suspended service. Visitors and local residents will once again have the quick—albeit pricey—option of air travel to and from Necochea.

Aeródromo de Necochea
Address: Ruta 86 Km 12.5, Quequén
Phone: (02262) 42-2473

Sources: Informe Digital and La Tecla [both in Spanish]
[Photo credit: simounef]

Updated on April 14, 2012: According to an article on NecocheaNet [in Spanish], service to Buenos Aires will finally begin on May 8, 2012. LAER will be offering one flight on Tuesday morning and another on Thursday afternoon. Tickets will be sold at a cost of $550 pesos, one-way. Read More......

Getting to Necochea by Bus, Plane or Car

Here are some tips for traveling between Buenos Aires [Capital Federal] and Necochea, Argentina.

By Bus to/from Retiro Station in Buenos Aires

Long-distance buses in Argentina are a comfortable and economical choice for travel. Nighttime buses leave from Retiro Bus Station [Terminal de Ómnibus] in Buenos Aires and arrive at the bus station in Necochea after a journey of seven to eight hours. Buses operating on a daytime schedule take considerably longer, so it's more sensible to travel at night.

Ticket prices hover around $275-$300 pesos per person, one-way, depending on the company and the type of seat you choose [semi-cama, cama-ejecutivo, suite]. Read a nice description of the different seat classes available here.

The following companies provide bus service between Necochea and Buenos Aires [Note: phone numbers are for the local offices in Necochea and main offices in Buenos Aires, respectively]:

Cóndor-Estrella Phone: (02262) 42-2120/(011) 4313-1700
Plusmar Phone: (02262) 52-5553/0-800 -222-PLUSMAR
El Rápido Phone: (02262) 42-7293/(011) 4514-4899

In addition to the information available on each company's website, you can also check timetables and compare prices on the site Plataforma 10.

Most days it's not necessary to purchase tickets in advance; however, if you're traveling on a holiday or a weekend, particularly during the summer, it's important to buy your tickets ahead of time. You can purchase tickets in Buenos Aires at Retiro Bus Station or at Necochea's bus terminal:

Necochea Terminal de Ómnibus
Address: Avenida Jesuita Cardiel [Ruta 86] y Avenida 58, Necochea
Phone: (02262) 42-2470

By Bus to/from Ezeiza International Airport in Buenos Aires

If you need to travel between Necochea and the international airport [Ministro Pistarini/Ezeiza] in Buenos Aires, another solid option lies with the bus company Manuel Tienda León. Unfortunately, you'll have to start or end your bus journey in Mar del Plata rather than Necochea, but the advantage of Tienda León is that you'll be taken directly to/from the airport, rather than having to negotiate a transfer at Retiro Bus Station with all your luggage. A one-way ticket between Mar del Plata and Ezeiza International Airport currently runs $330 pesos, and it can be purchased online or at Tienda León's offices in Mar del Plata, Ezeiza or at select travel agencies in Necochea.

For the Necochea-Mar del Plata leg of your journey, you can take a bus or remis [shared car service] between the two cities for about $50 pesos one-way.

By Plane

Regional airline LAER now offers twice-weekly flights between Aeroparque "Jorge Newbery" in Buenos Aires and Necochea. I would recommend an email or phone call to verify flight availability if you're considering this option.

Aeródromo de Necochea
Address: Ruta 86 Km 12.5, Quequén
Phone: (02262) 42-2473

Though less convenient, it's also possible to take a bus or remis to Mar del Plata and catch a flight from there to Buenos Aires. Aerolíneas Argentina and LADE operate flights several times a week from Mar del Plata to Aeroparque in Buenos Aires.

By Car

If you're driving to Necochea from the capital, expect to spend at least 5 ½ hours traveling between the two cities. Build in extra travel time for unforeseen circumstances such as demonstrators blocking the highway. And be careful out there—Argentines aren't the safest drivers.

By Train

There is currently no train service between Buenos Aires and Necochea. Trains do run from Buenos Aires to Mar del Plata via Estación Constitución [Constitution Railway Station], but anecdotal evidence suggests that the trains attract criminal activity and often experience significant delays.

[Prices and information updated on January 28, 2013]

Day Trip to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

The historic quarter of Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay [map] was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, and it only takes a few minutes of wandering among the well-preserved colonial architecture to understand why. Founded in 1680, both the Spanish and Portuguese left their mark on this small city situated along the northern bank of the Río de la Plata. Today, Colonia is a destination for thousands of tourists looking to escape the hustle and bustle of Buenos Aires for the day (or looking to renew their 90-day tourist visas!).

The Buquebus ferry terminal located in Puerto Madero is a clean, bright and modern facility (in stark contrast to Retiro station where I'd arrived by bus from Necochea just a few hours earlier). After purchasing my ticket, I made my way through security and passport control, and I plopped down on a bench in the waiting area until boarding time. I was thoroughly entertained by the little girl next to me who was playing with various dolls and plastic animals. The minutes passed quickly as I watched the giraffe climb the "tree" (aka telescoping luggage handle), and before I knew it people were lining up to board the ferry.

[Inside the Buquebus terminal]

I boarded the high-speed ferry Atlantic III and took my seat for the 55-minute crossing. We pulled away from the dock and out onto open water, crossing the muddy, chocolate milk-colored waters of the Río de la Plata, which forms part of the border between Argentina and Uruguay. As we neared Colonia the brilliant white lighthouse came into view, and just a few minutes later we prepared to disembark.

Upon arrival in Colonia – armed with experience from my prior visit – I set out on foot toward the historic quarter of the city. Since I had arrived just in time for lunch, the first order of business was finding a place to eat. After the so-so meal I'd eaten at El Torreón last October, I was hoping for a more positive experience this time around at a different eatery.

I turned off the main thoroughfare of Avenida General Flores and began navigating the back streets, where I stumbled upon a small restaurant called La Casa de Jorge Páez Vilaró, hidden along a narrow side street. The ambience of the restaurant was lovely (it's housed within a stone building dating to the 1850s and filled with period furniture and original contemporary art pieces), and I was seated in a small, sunlit interior courtyard. Unfortunately, neither the food nor the service lived up to the beautiful setting.

I ordered an appetizer of parmesan asparagus, which arrived limp, gray and drowning in a thick cheese sauce. My entrée of gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp), though artfully presented, consisted of tiny, rubbery shrimp that were so salty I only managed to finish the dish by taking large gulps of water between mouthfuls. The service was perfunctory and indifferent, and I left the restaurant with a bad taste in my mouth and significantly less cash in my wallet.

Though lunch was a complete dud, the sunshine and unseasonably warm winter temperatures soon erased my disappointment. With camera in hand, I set off in search of some interesting shots. Colonia is very photogenic with numerous spots just begging to be photographed. Everywhere you turn there are well-preserved remnants of the past: charming old colonial buildings, bumpy cobblestone streets and even cool vintage cars (they crop up all over the place here!). The historic section is extremely walkable, and you can see most of what the city has to offer in a day.

[Iglesia Matriz (1680), the oldest church in Uruguay]

[Calle de los Suspiros – It's said that centuries ago, sailors wandered this street looking for a good time after a long voyage at sea, if you know what I mean. Wink, wink.]

[Paseo San Gabriel, a promenade along the Río de la Plata]

[Taking in the view from the Paseo San Gabriel]

[These old-fashioned streetlamps and handmade tiles indicating the street names add to Colonia's charm.]

[Colonia's lighthouse, which was first lit in 1857, lies adjacent to the ruins of the 17th-century Convento de San Francisco.]

One place I had yet to explore on my previous trip was the small port area on the northern side of the city. I thought I might find some good picture-taking opportunities over that way.

[The river sparkling under the mid-day sun]

[I couldn't resist these rusty yet colorful buoys stacked in a corner.]

[Relax and enjoy the sunshine on the pier. There's a seat waiting for you.]

[El Puerto Viejo | The Old Port]

From the port I hoofed it back to the ferry terminal at the other end of town, stopping briefly along the way to chat with an elderly woman about her two cats lounging in a picture window and the black mop of a dog at her side. I arrived about 45 minutes prior to the ferry's departure, and by the time I checked in and cleared passport control, it was practically time to head back. Once on board I settled into my seat and took a bit of a snooze, awakening at just the right moment to appreciate the twilight sky over the river as we pulled into port in Buenos Aires.

And so, after a relaxing afternoon on the other side of the river, I have just one thing to say: Colonia, I love you but next time I'm packing my lunch.

View my complete set of photos from Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay on Flickr.

Driving in Argentina

When I was a kid, my dad was fanatical about seat belt use, and he always insisted that my sister and I buckle up. In fact, we were repeatedly told that the car simply wouldn't move until the aforementioned seat belts were fastened. Apparently this mindset stuck with me because I've always been very conscientious about using my seat belt and asking that others riding with me use theirs too, even if they weren't accustomed to wearing it.

Generally speaking, I'd like to say that I'm a reasonably safe and courteous driver. I will own up to having a bit of a lead foot, but overall I wouldn't classify myself as a menace to society when I'm on the road. Well, maybe if you're a groundhog, but that's a completely different story.

At the present moment, I'm relegated to the passenger seat because I don't know how to drive stick (it's very rare to find a car with automatic transmission in Argentina). I'm not exactly complaining; being chauffeured around town isn't so bad. I'm sure I'll get around to learning one of these days, but honestly, I'm not entirely convinced I want to drive here. Why? The answer is simple: the Argentines drive like lunatics.

Lane markers...merely a suggestion. Speed limit...what's that? Traffic lights...generally obeyed. Stop signs...almost non-existent, which results in a free-for-all at 4-way intersections. Seat belts...apparently they're meant for decoration because hardly anyone uses them. Yielding to pedestrians...maybe if it's an old lady with a cane, but even then, highly unlikely. Speed bumps...everywhere [very annoying!]. Road rage...amazingly, not so much.

I don't think my parents truly believed my description of how people drive here until they saw it with their own two eyes. Fortunately, things are a bit calmer here in Necochea than in Buenos Aires but not much.

Think I'm exaggerating? Here's an excerpt from the U.S. State Department's page on Argentina:

"Traffic accidents are the primary threat to life and limb in Argentina. Pedestrians and drivers should exercise caution. Drivers frequently ignore traffic laws and vehicles often travel at excessive speeds. The rate and toll of traffic accidents has been a topic of much media attention over the past year. The Institute of Road Safety and Education, a private Buenos Aires organization dedicated to transportation safety issues, reports that Argentina has the highest traffic mortality rate in South America per 100,000 inhabitants."

If you couple the devil-may-care attitude about driving safety along with the fact that a good number of cars on the road are poorly maintained and/or lacking advanced safety features such as airbags, it's no wonder that Argentina has such a high mortality rate when it comes to car accidents.

Still think you'd like to take a crack at driving in Argentina? If so, I suggest you read fellow blogger Taos Turner's attempt at finding some sanity while behind the wheel: 15 Rules for Stress-free Driving in Argentina.

Fortunately, Daniel's driving habits seem to buck the general trend, as he is a very cautious driver (in fact, I tease him for driving like an old man). I know I'm in good hands with him, but he's not the one I have to worry about - it's the rest of the crazies out there. Do you think I could somehow wear two seat belts?

Greetings from Lima, Peru

I'm pleased to announce that I have winged my way to the South American continent where I'm presently awaiting my connecting flight to Buenos Aires. It's gray, muggy and rather hot here in Lima, especially if, like me, you're wearing fifty layers of clothing to maximize every inch of space in your suitcases. My temperature-induced crankiness coupled with the fact that I am dog-tired led me to make the decision to just stay put at the airport. I had daydreamed about a brief field trip out into the city to take in some sights, but reality jarred me back to my senses when I stepped off the plane. Besides, everyone knows that a computer with a fast Internet connection is the perfect timewaster. Hello, Facebook...

The ride to New York and the flight to Lima went relatively smoothly. The biggest blow was delivered at the check-in counter when the ticket agent asked to weigh my carry-on luggage. Of course, I had fully prepared my checked luggage to exacting weight specifications, particularly since you're looking at excess baggage fees between $50 and $150. I decided to be a rebel when it came to my hand luggage, though, for the pure and simple fact that in all the times I've flown, I've never had my carry-on pieces weighed. Well, I guess I rolled the dice, and this time I wasn't so lucky. Upon hearing this crushing piece of news, I was fully prepared to send the suitcase home with my stepdad rather than pay the steep fee; I figured it would have to make the journey another time. Fortunately, a generous benefactor came to my rescue, and a baggage disaster was narrowly averted. ;)

A number of other irritating events transpired over the last 10 hours or so, but irritation seems to go hand-in-hand with air travel these days. At least I can be thankful that I didn't have burning hot coffee spilled in my lap by the flight attendant like the nice Peruvian woman seated to my right did. That's not exactly how I like to start off my day at 5:30 am.

Next stop...Buenos Aires.

Flights from Buenos Aires to Necochea?

Although there are extensive long-distance bus routes connecting points within the province of Buenos Aires, limited options exist for travelers wishing to reach destinations by air. According to an article [in Spanish] on Mensajeroweb, all of that may be about to change. The provincial government of Buenos Aires announced an initiative that makes subsidies available for new flights from the capital to locations around the province.

On November 17th, Sol Líneas Aéreas began operating flights from Aeroparque "Jorge Newbery" to Tandil. The airline also proposed additional routes to Necochea and Villa Gesell, subject to a government feasibility study.

A direct flight from Buenos Aires to Necochea would definitely appeal to my family members coming to visit from the States. Let's face it—after almost 11 hours on a plane, the prospect of a 5 1/2-hour car ride or up to eight hours on a bus just isn't that exciting.

[Update: Although Sol Líneas Aéreas did operate flights to Necochea for a brief period of time, service was suspended indefinitely in March 2009. Regional carrier LAER now offers flights between Buenos Aires and Necochea.]