Getting a Driver's License in Argentina

When I moved to Argentina six years ago, what initially kept me from driving was the chaotic mix of stray animals, motorcyclists, bicyclists and pedestrians coupled with a flagrant disregard for basic traffic laws on the part of many (most?) drivers. Eventually that chaos became the new norm, yet something else even greater was holding me back. I didn't know how to drive stick shift. My husband gave me lessons, dutifully taking me out to practice on the dusty back roads bordering the fields of sunflowers and soy, but I never quite got the hang of it. So even though I'd been driving since the age of 17, I reluctantly gave up my independence, settling—albeit temporarily—for the passenger seat. Finally, after years of being chauffeured around Necochea by my family and friends, I saved up the money to buy a car with automatic transmission (no easy feat in Argentina, where the overwhelming majority of cars for sale have a manual transmission).

With the keys to my new ride in hand, I set my sights on completing another expat rite of passage: applying for a driver's license. As a tourist, foreign drivers are free to roam the mean streets of Argentina with an international driving permit and a valid foreign license; however, residents must obtain an Argentine driver's license. (Note: Foreigners cannot apply for a driver's license without a DNI.)

The information provided here is valid for those applying for a driver's license in the province of Buenos Aires. Please note that my experience in Necochea may be different from yours. The requirements for residents of the city of Buenos Aires and other provinces vary. If you're looking to obtain your license in Capital Federal, the blog Discover Buenos Aires has a very informative post.

Process for Obtaining an Argentine Driver's License (Province of Buenos Aires)

1. Schedule an appointment. Although some municipalities have an online system for appointments, here in Necochea, you have to do it the old-fashioned way by going in person. I went to the Oficina de Licencias de Conducir, Dirección de Seguridad Pública, and I was given an appointment for almost three weeks later. I was also handed a list of the required items that I would need to present at the time of my appointment.

Requirements for Argentine Driver's License (Province of Buenos Aires)

• DNI booklet (not card) plus two photocopies of pages 2, 3, and 8
• Proof of blood type (I used my American Red Cross blood donor card)
• Two completed medical forms (Declaración Jurada de Salud), available for purchase at a nearby kiosk
• Municipal fee ($120 in Necochea, price varies by municipality), pay in advance of appointment and bring proof of payment
• Valid foreign driver's license plus a photocopy of your license

Also, in anticipation of your appointment, take some time to prepare for the written driver's exam (you can purchase a hard copy of the practice questions for a small fee or take a practice test online for free).

2. Check in. On the day of my appointment, I returned to the Oficina de Licencias de Conducir where I waited for my name to be called. I was led back to a desk and asked to present my paperwork, DNI, etc., (all of the items listed above). Next, my photo and fingerprints were taken, and I was asked to provide a digital signature. After reviewing and signing a print-out with my information, I was directed to wait until called for the vision test. I was given my paperwork to take with me.

3. Take vision test. I was asked to identify three letters on an eye chart, and I was given two pieces of paper to add to my collection of forms. The end.

4. Pay provincial fee. Payment of the provincial fee ($173) must be made at Banco Provincia or, in Necochea, at the Cámara de Comercio. I added these receipts to the pile of paperwork and forged ahead.

5. Take written exam. In Necochea, the written exam is given at the Departamento de Tránsito, across town from where my adventure began. Here I was asked to present all of my paperwork and my foreign driver's license. In some municipalities the test is computerized, but not in Necochea. The exam consisted of 56 multiple-choice questions in Spanish about the rules of the road, plus 16 questions, also multiple choice, about street signs. I passed with flying colors and was given a date to pick up my license. I was not required to take a road test, presumably because I was already a licensed driver in another country.

6. Pick up license. My license was available for pick-up at the Oficina de Licencias de Conducir about one week later.

So, now I've officially joined the ranks of the crazies, striking fear in the hearts of pedestrians and stray dogs all over Necochea, and I’ve rediscovered the joy of driving…Argentine style.

[Image credit: Agencia Nacional de Seguridad Vial]

Read More......

Gratitude

In the almost four years that I've lived in Argentina, I haven't suffered all that much from homesickness; however, as I began to reflect on last year's holiday season spent in Philadelphia with my family and Daniel, I found the prospects of a turkey-less, North-American-family-free Thanksgiving rather disheartening. Nevertheless, in the days leading up to today, I perfunctorily planned a Thanksgiving feast that was to include my best approximation of the traditional meal.

But it seems that my work responsibilities (and my emotions, to a great extent) have conspired against me.

And so today, I'm giving thanks with my heart rather than with my stomach. Of course, we won't exactly go hungry, but the focus of this year's holiday will not be the food—it will be gratitude. Even without the bird and the trimmings, I am tremendously thankful for my wonderful husband, family and friends; my health; my thriving freelance translation business; and many other small pleasures that are too numerous to list here.

Happy Thanksgiving to all my friends and family, wherever you call home. May your hearts be full and your blessings many.

---

Past Reflections on Thanksgiving

2011 Home for the Holidays
2010 Grateful
2009 Let's Talk Turkey (or Lack Thereof)
2008 Thankful

[Image credit: Minnesota Historical Society]

Read More......

Argentine Residency: Mission Accomplished!

My Argentine permanent residency saga has come to an end. Just the other week I went online to the website for Argentina's immigration service, and I found out that my residency paperwork had been ready since June 22! So, at the first opportunity, Daniel and I headed to the immigration office in Mar del Plata to pick up my completed paperwork. Though my previous experiences there featuring a Colombian ex-con and disappearing computer records made for good blog fodder, I was really hoping for smooth sailing this time around.

I did not have to make an appointment to pick up my paperwork; I just took a number when I arrived at Migraciones. Understandably, those with appointments were given priority, even if they arrived after me, but this system lengthened my wait time considerably. Fortunately, by the time the immigration worker got around to calling out numbers, I realized that most of the people ahead of me had long since given up and left.

As she rattled off the numbers at a rate approaching the speed of light, I realized this worker had missed her true calling in life as an auctioneer. She fired off numbers 99 to 07, the latter of which I clutched in my hand. Despite my best efforts to catch her attention while wading through the masses surrounding the front desk, she'd already slipped into the back, no doubt deciding it was the perfect moment for a mate break.

When she finally made it back to the front desk, I pounced. I stated the reason for my visit and held my breath as she searched for my records in the computer. I swear the worker almost sounded surprised when she confirmed, "Yes, your paperwork is ready." She asked me to wait for a few minutes while my file was being retrieved, and I took a seat once more, feeling (prematurely) optimistic.

No more than ten minutes later, my half-inch-thick paper file emerged from the records room. The woman asked me to review my personal data for accuracy, and just as I handed back the paperwork, she announced, "It looks like the computer system's gone down. You know, this happened the other day, too, and we had to clear out the whole office because we couldn't get any work done."

As we waited for a computer technician somewhere to put a couple of 25-centavo coins in the slot to continue gameplay, the immigration worker explained that I could apply for my DNI para Extranjeros (National Identity Document for Foreigners) right there at Migraciones. She added that the document would be mailed to my home within 30 days.

A few minutes after the computer system was up and running once again, I received my official paperwork declaring me a permanent resident of Argentina.

I also completed the simple and quick process to receive my DNI, which I'll explain in detail when it arrives in August.

For all the complaining that Argentines and expats alike do about the bureaucracy here, I have to admit that the residency process turned out to be fairly efficient and painless for me. The total processing time for my permanent residency amounted to three months, and I should have my DNI in a month. I mean look at that – I only got to do one Argentine residency update! I figured I could milk that for at least two or three more blog posts. Could Argentine bureaucracy actually be improving?

Argentine Residency: Update #1
Argentine Residency Through Marriage Read More......

¿De Dónde Sos? | Where Are You From?

¿De dónde sos? Where are you from? Liz Caskey, a long-time resident of neighboring Chile, finds that this question touches a nerve, and she broached the topic over at the Eat Wine blog in this post. Much of what Liz wrote resonated with me, and her post sparked some interesting conversation with friends on Facebook.

"This question appears to be innocent and overly simple. Some consider it friendly. But imagine how you would feel if they asked you, after 11+ years where you live, the same thing every single day. A 'simple' question that comes even before saying hello, asking my name, or inquiring how I am doing."

Fortunately, given that I live in a small city and tend to frequent the same neighborhood businesses, I'm not subjected to this question on a daily basis. The butcher, the baker, and the candlestick maker man who owns the corner store already know I'm a yanqui – no news there. However, anytime I patronize a new business or travel outside my home turf, I'm barraged with the same litany of questions: Where are you from? Why did you move here? Do you like Argentina?

At the beginning, I used to make a game of it. When presented with the inevitable lead-off question, I would counter, "Well, where do you think I'm from?" The answers were generally quite varied and amusing and, interestingly, hardly ever included the United States. But after a while I grew tired of the exchange.

Now, don't get me wrong – I'm a talkative person. I have no qualms about chitchatting with strangers and indulging their curiosity. But you know, sometimes when I head to the grocery store for a bag of milk, I just want to buy said bag of milk and leave. I don't want to recount my life story or play a game of 20 Questions (and yes, I am bigger than a breadbox).

Nonetheless, I'm also keenly aware of the fact that, in some ways, I'm an unofficial ambassador of the United States. Unlike Buenos Aires, Bariloche or Iguazú, Necochea and the innumerable small towns of Argentina don't appear on the radar of most international travelers. For some Argentines, I will be the first American they will have ever met, and I'd much rather work to create positive impressions than reinforce old, worn-out stereotypes (e.g. Americans are cold) by brushing off their questions.

For some expats, style of dress, physical appearance and even the way they carry themselves clue people in that they're foreigners and prompt the dreaded "¿De dónde sos?" Chris from In Patagonia offered: "It's a question you just have to get used to, no way around it I don't think!…I think God can use our appearance to open doors of conversation and opportunity."

While I think Chris makes a good point, in my case, I don't feel as though appearance is the big giveaway. Instead, I find that the questions start flowing when I open my mouth. If I keep my talking to a bare minimum, I can sometimes get away without my accent being detected, but these instances are few and far between.

With all that said, it seems that foreigners have devised various approaches to dealing with this issue. Liz recommends the following tactic:

"Now, when I am asked the 'where are you from' question, I try to laugh. I see it as an opportunity to open somebody else's eyes. Instead of getting frustrated or defensive since there must be something wrong with my accent, I simply ask, 'sorry, you asked my name?'. I usually get a confused look first and then they get it – I am a person first and foremost."

Of course, I could always go the route of my friend Eli's father. Even though he and his wife have called Mar del Plata, Argentina their home for over 30 years, he still gets asked the question "Where are you from?", to which he jokingly replies, "I'm from *Tucumán."

[Twitter contact @sorrelmw touched on this same topic on her blog, where she featured this humorous music video. Click here if you can't view the embedded video.]

*Tucumán is a small province in Northwest Argentina and, needless to say, a far cry from Eli's dad's actual hometown of Buffalo, New York.

Read More......

Argentine Residency: Update #1

A little over a month has lapsed since I began the process of obtaining Argentine residency through marriage. On Monday, I received a phone call from one of the immigration officers, and I perked up immediately. He asked me to come in the following day to pick up my residencia precaria [link in Spanish], a document granting temporary residency while my permanent residency request is in process. During my previous visit to the immigration office, the officer had held out the possibility that my residency paperwork would be fully completed within one month, but in my heart of hearts, I knew that was wishful thinking. Obtaining the precaria represented a small victory, but as is usually the case with paperwork in Argentina, there was also a problem.

The immigration officer stated that I now needed a criminal background check from Interpol to complete my file. Mind you, I'd already submitted the FBI background check and the criminal background check from Argentine authorities. Not to mention that I've done a lot of reading about the process to obtain Argentine residency, and I don't once ever recall stumbling upon anything listing an Interpol background check as one of the requirements. However, with Expect the unexpected being the unofficial motto of the residency process in Argentina, I dutifully headed to the office of the Policía Federal here in Necochea to request the report.

The police officer who initially greeted me politely tried to brush me off onto the folks at the Prefectura Naval. When I explained that I'd just come from the immigration office at the Prefectura and that they'd specifically sent me to the Federal Police, much confusion ensued. After consulting with three different people, the officer finally decided that, yes, he could take my fingerprints and request the Interpol report on my behalf.

Should you require a criminal background check from Interpol as part of the process for Argentine residency, here are the documents you'll need to present:

• Passport [photocopy of the entire document, including blank pages]
• Original birth certificate with an apostille prepared by the state issuing the certificate plus a translation by an official Argentine translator [photocopy]
• Certificado de matrimonio (marriage certificate) [photocopy]
• Two special forms that you obtain from Migraciones 

You will be fingerprinted at the Policía Federal, free of charge.

Once you've been fingerprinted and you've presented all the necessary documents, an officer will sign and stamp one of the special forms, which must be returned immediately to Migraciones. The report from Interpol will later be automatically forwarded to Migraciones (the officer did not know the timeframe involved).

Honestly, I don't know if the Interpol criminal background check constitutes a brand new requirement that was introduced just within the last month, or if it's all part of the elaborate wild goose chase they like to send people on just for kicks. After some digging, I did find this thread on a TripAdvisor forum mentioning an Interpol background check as a requirement for the pensioner visa, but otherwise I came up empty-handed. I'd be interested to hear about others' experiences.

I also received the disappointing news that the small immigration outpost at the Prefectura Naval – conveniently located just across the river in Quequén – will no longer process paperwork of this type, so I'm now back to traveling an hour and a half to Mar del Plata, with its dismal immigration office, to take care of any future issues.

[Photo credit: kozumel]

Read More......

Argentine Residency Through Marriage

First comes love, then comes marriage, then comes…permanent residency in Argentina! If you're getting married in Argentina and planning on applying for permanent residency, read on for tips, information and additional resources to navigate the lengthy bureaucratic process.

Applying for Permanent Residency in Argentina through Marriage

Locate the immigration office nearest to you and make an appointment if necessary. An appointment was not required at the location where I applied for residency (a very small office staffed by two people). Prior to the appointment, make a set of photocopies of all the documents you will submit for your personal records.

Necessary Documentation

Be prepared to present the following documents to immigration officials:

• Passport with a valid visa stamp or prórroga de permanencia (visa extension) plus a photocopy of the entire document, including blank pages
• Original birth certificate with an apostille prepared by the state issuing the certificate [What is an apostille?]
• Criminal background check from your home country with an apostille [For U.S. citizens, this document must be issued by the FBI with an apostille prepared by the U.S. Department of State. Complete instructions for requesting the criminal background check from the FBI are provided on the FBI website along with additional info about the apostille procedure (#9) in the FAQ.]
• Criminal background check from Argentine authorities [obtained at the local Registro Civil through the Registro Nacional de Reincidencia]
• Certificado de domicilio [proof of address in Argentina, obtained at the local Registro Civil]
• Spouse's DNI plus a photocopy of the entire document
• Acta de matrimonio [a certified copy of the signed page from the marriage record, obtained at the local Registro Civil]
• Four 4cm x 4cm color passport photos
• Fee – $600 pesos

Translation

Both the birth certificate and the criminal background check from your home country (plus their respective apostilles) must be translated into Spanish by an official translator and legalized by the Colegio de Traductores Públicos.

You can locate an official translator in Argentina through the website of the Colegio de Traductores Públicos de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires.

Processing of Permanent Residency Paperwork

It is my understanding that immigration officials normally provide a certificado de residencia precaria – a document conferring temporary residency while your permanent residency request is in process – at the end of your appointment; however, the only document I was given was a receipt for the $600 fee.

I inquired about the aforementioned document, and the immigration officer stated that the precaria wasn't necessary since he expected my residency to be processed quickly (!). He stated that if my request for permanent residency isn't granted by the end of April (total processing time of one month), then he would provide me with the precaria.

He also mentioned that there's a slim possibility that I may be called for an interview by immigration officials in Mar del Plata to ensure that I didn't enter into a sham marriage for immigration purposes.

Processing of your residency paperwork can take anywhere from a couple of months up to one year and multiple trips to the immigration office, so be patient!

The Next Step

Once you have received status as a permanent resident, you may begin the process to obtain a DNI for foreigners.

Disclaimer: What I've detailed here represents my personal experiences at the civil registry office in Necochea and immigration office at the Prefectura Naval in Quequén, Province of Buenos Aires. Given the capricious nature of Argentine bureaucracy, your experience may be different.

Additional Resources:

List of requirements to request residency based on marriage to an Argentine, as outlined by the Dirección Nacional de Migraciones [in English and Spanish]

Experiences with applying for permanent residency in Argentina from Meag at A Domestic Disturbance

The Embassy of Argentina in the United States can advise you if you're beginning the permanent residency process for Argentina while still living in the U.S.

[Photo credit: luxomedia]

Read More......

Getting Married in Argentina

If you're planning on getting married in Argentina, read on for information and resources regarding the necessary steps to arrange a civil ceremony.

The Argentine government recognizes the civil wedding as the only legally binding marriage ceremony performed in Argentina. You may opt to be married in a religious ceremony as well, but all couples must have a separate civil ceremony to legalize their union.

Note: Either you or your fiancé(e) must be Argentine or a permanent resident of Argentina; two tourists cannot legally marry each other in Argentina. [Update: As of May 2012, foreign tourists are allowed to marry in the City of Buenos Aires and the provinces of Santa Fe, Tierra del Fuego and Buenos Aires. If both you and your fiancé(e) are tourists, please see my post "Foreign Tourists Permitted to Marry in Buenos Aires" for more information and requirements.]

Marriage in Argentina Between a Foreigner and an Argentine Citizen

To begin the process, you and your fiancé(e) should head to the Registro Civil (Civil Registry) closest to your legal place of residence, as recorded in your fiancé(e)'s DNI. You may select a date for your civil ceremony no more than 30 to 45 days out from the date you plan to get married. We were able to pick both the date and time of our ceremony; however, we were limited to Monday through Friday between 8am and 1pm, as those are the hours that our Registro Civil is open to the public.

Requirements for Marriage in Argentina (Foreigner Marrying an Argentine)

• Foreigner: passport with valid visa stamp or prórroga de permanencia (visa extension) plus a photocopy of the entire document
• Argentine: DNI plus a photocopy of the entire document
• Blood test results [get blood drawn at local hospital no more than one week prior to date of wedding (no cost); return certified results to the Registro Civil before your wedding day]
• Complete and return paperwork, including the names and personal information of two people who will serve as witnesses [cannot be family members; must be Argentines with DNI]
• You may be required to provide additional documentation proving that any previous marriages were legally terminated, either by death or divorce.
• Fees [$40 pesos payable at Banco de la Provincia—you cannot pay at the Civil Registry]

The civil ceremony lasts only twenty minutes or so and is conducted by an employee of the Registro Civil. Most people invite friends and family to attend the civil wedding even if there will be a church ceremony later on, but at the very least, you must bring your two witnesses, and of course, your partner!

You will be given a libreta de familia and certificado de matrimonio [photo] immediately following the ceremony. If you or your spouse plan to obtain residency following your marriage, you must also pay a separate fee for the acta de matrimonio, a certified copy of the page you, your spouse and your witnesses signed in the marriage record.

Disclaimer: Different provinces and civil registries often have varying requirements for marriage. What I've detailed here represents my personal experiences in the City of Necochea, Province of Buenos Aires. Given the capricious nature of Argentine bureaucracy, your experience may be different.

Additional Resources:

General list of requirements for marriage in Argentina, as outlined by the United States Embassy in Buenos Aires [in English]

Specific requirements for marriage in the City of Buenos Aires and for the Province of Buenos Aires [in Spanish]

Experiences with getting married in Argentina from Meag at A Domestic Disturbance

Legal implications of international marriage, with information specific to Argentina from Expat Argentina [older post but the information is still useful]

[Photo credit: blmurch]

Read More......

Home Sweet Home

I'm now back in Necochea after a month-long visit to the States, and I've been up to my eyeballs in translation projects and choral music ever since I returned. Now that I've gotten caught up on my work, lived the excitement of the Coraliada, our multi-day choral festival, and officially tacked on another year to my age, I've finally had a chance to sit down and reflect on my trip.

I lived some wonderful experiences during my time back in the Philadelphia area, and I had the good fortune of visiting a number of delightful places such as Longwood Gardens, the Philadelphia Zoo, Tyler Arboretum and the Jersey shore. I also spent many an evening sipping coffee at Starbucks with my best friend, talking makeup and girly stuff with my little sister, and just catching up in general with family members and friends (and getting to know some new ones, too!). No matter how many emails you send or phone calls you make, nothing beats some good old-fashioned face time.

I took great pleasure in the little moments – small reminders of home that hit me out of the blue and made me grin. I had missed these things, and I hadn't even realized it: watching a flock of Canada geese honking and passing by overhead at sunset; knowing the words to just about every song that came on the radio and singing along as I sped down the highway; savoring some water ice from Rita's on a hot summer's day and having my mouth stained red as a result.

I also brought along some elements of my new life to share: I drank mate with my stepdad, I taught my great-aunt how to make empanadas, and I spoke Spanish at dinner one night with an Argentine and his wife who live just a hop, skip and a jump from my old home.

In some ways it felt so effortless to be back in my former life, but still there were moments that pinched me and reminded me that I've changed since moving to Argentina. This place has left an indelible mark on me.

Home is where the heart is, or so they say. But what happens when your heart is torn between two different countries? I've resigned myself to the fact that there's always bound to be a bit of heartache for me, because no matter where I am in this world, I'm always missing someone who's important to me. Straddling two cultures, two lands – it's not easy. What do you say we just squeeze the continents back together, Pangaea-style?

---

If you'd like to check out some of the photos from my trip, take a look here.

Read More......

Craving a Taste of Home: Foods That Are Hard to Find in Argentina

For this foodie, living in Argentina has presented a real challenge at times. While the proliferation of expats and changing tastes among porteños have translated into increased demand and availability of ethnic foods and imported products in the capital, most ingredients for exotic cuisines like Indian, Mexican, Thai or American (ha!) remain nearly impossible to source outside of Buenos Aires and other large cities.

Although some Argentines are slowly expanding their palates and learning to embrace new foods, the backbone of the menu here is still rather limited. Take a glance at the Argentine food pyramid if you have any doubts.

The Argentines' dislike of spicy foods, in particular, creates a problem for chili heads like me. Many people automatically equate any cuisine south of the border with spicy, but I assure you that there is nothing fiery about Argentine food. Most Argentines will cough and sputter if you so much as go heavy-handed with the black pepper. They also seem to show a general disdain for sweet and sour or sweet and salty food combinations.

[Look, it's cayenne pepper! A display at El Gato Negro, one of the few specialty spice shops in Buenos Aires]

While I've certainly embraced Argentine cuisine and food culture, there's still a definite comfort factor associated with foods from the "old country." Plus, as someone who enjoys variety and experimenting with food, a steady diet of asado, empanadas, and pasta—as delicious as it is—loses its shine quickly.

Given the lack of availability of many products, in most cases I make do without, substitute a similar Argentine product, or make the item from scratch; however, for those ingredients that I simply can't live without, I maintain a private stash more closely guarded than Fort Knox.

In the interest of aiding friends and family who'd like to send care packages to those living abroad in Argentina, or if you need a packing list of your favorite items for an impending move to this country, I have compiled this (partial) list of hard-to-find foods.

Update: Due to import restrictions that went into effect in 2012, it has become even more difficult to find certain specialty/imported foods in Argentina.

---

American Foods That Are Difficult to Come by in Argentina

**Meats: Italian sausage, breakfast sausage, bacon, pepperoni, many American-style cuts of beef  [Argentine cuts vary significantly]

**Dairy: *cream cheese, *cheddar cheese, *brie, feta, cottage cheese, sour cream, fresh mozzarella, *plain yogurt, buttermilk

Spices: dried dill weed, celery seed, red pepper flake, dried chile peppers, spice blends such as lemon pepper, chili powder and taco seasoning

Condiments/Sauces/Spreads: *barbecue sauce, *salad dressings such as French, ranch, and blue cheese, *Dijon and spicy brown mustards, *Worcestershire sauce, *horseradish, *pickles, relish,*peanut butter, grape jelly, *maple syrup

Baking: marshmallows, brown sugar, shredded sweetened coconut, mint extract, *molasses, *chocolate chips

Drinks: root beer, cream soda, birch beer, ginger ale, Dr. Pepper, Mountain Dew, bottled fruit juices, apple cider

Snacks: *tortilla chips, *jarred salsa, *pretzels

Miscellaneous: bagels, flavored coffee, cranberries, licorice, corn tortillas, *pecans, rye bread

*Spotted in Argentina (primarily in Buenos Aires) but hard to find and/or pricey

**Please note that customs restrictions and/or conditions during travel prevent many of these items from being brought into the country.

---

Tips for Tracking Down Unusual Ingredients

Hunt down your favorite exotic and imported foods at the following locations.

» Barrio Chino (Chinatown) in Belgrano [intersection of Arribeños and Juramento], Buenos Aires

» Jumbo in Palermo [intersection of Av. Bullrich and Cerviño], Buenos Aires

» Disco, Carrefour and Walmart (all three have locations throughout the country)

» Dietéticas (health food stores) sell products in bulk including spices, grains, nuts and beans. Many foods that prove difficult to find elsewhere can be sourced at a well-stocked dietética.

» Casas de repostería carry ingredients and supplies for baking, cake decorating, and candy making. Head to one of these shops if you're searching for a special ingredient for your next cake or batch of cookies.

For additional help with your expat foodie mission, peruse this excellent list of shops and food markets in Buenos Aires as well as information on where to get your hands on some unusual cheeses.

Which foods do you miss from your home country?

Read More......

A Tale of Red Tape

With my visa set to expire in just a few days, Daniel and I drove 1 1/2 hours to the immigration office in Mar del Plata last Monday to obtain an extension. Let the games begin.

[Welcome to your friendly neighborhood maximum security detention center immigration office.]

We arrive at Migraciones at 8:30am and find that virtually no one is in the office. We're called upon immediately, and I explain the purpose of my visit. The immigration employee tells me I must make photocopies of each and every page of my passport and then return to the office with the copies. Thankfully there's a kiosk on the corner, and we file down the stairs and out the building to complete our first task. We're back in 15 minutes or less, and we hand over the photocopies and take a seat.

The immigration office is bleaker than bleak. My eyes wander over the flimsy, black, molded plastic chairs and dingy white walls, while the fluorescent fixtures overhead cast a cold, harsh light over everyone and everything. In the middle of the wall hangs a faded portrait of Mother Theresa, since no Argentine public office can be without a figure of the Virgin or a saint of some sort.

After waiting for about 45 minutes or so, the immigration employee calls us up to the desk. He says there's a problem. With a great flourish, he produces a printout that lists my exits from and entries into the country. Although I have a stamp in my passport that clearly shows my last entry into Argentina, there is no record of it in the computer. The employee explains that he'll have to call Buenos Aires to get this sorted out, and he recommends that we take a walk for an hour or so in the meantime.

Fortunately, we do have an errand to run, so we head out and take a long walk down Avenida Independencia to our destination. With time to spare before the magic hour when my problem will be fixed, we stop at a sidewalk café for coffee and a medialuna, knowing full well that there's no real hurry to return.

We head back to Migraciones at 10:30am, and I'm trying to be optimistic. The office is bustling now, with a new face turning up every few minutes. We wade through the sea of people, and we manage to nab a place to sit. A few minutes later, the employee informs us that he's still waiting on an answer from Buenos Aires.

Over the course of the next two hours, we manage to make occasional eye contact with the employee, but he does nothing more than mumble for us to hang tight un segundito (a quick second) before turning away. Finally, after quite a few segunditos, he calls us up to the counter to tell us, with the gravest of expressions, that my situation is "very complicated," and he urges us to wait while he gathers reinforcements. He returns with another employee who informs me that I have unwittingly become a participant in what amounts to "an absolutely unheard-of situation." I assure you that these are the last words you want to hear while standing in a government office – anywhere.

Apparently, back in October when I visited Uruguay with Daniel and my parents, we returned to Argentina on some sort of ghost ship, or perhaps it was the Good Ship Lollipop. Either way, the boat I took from Colonia to Buenos Aires is nowhere to be found in the computer system. There is no record of that boat, and according to the system, none of the passengers that left Buenos Aires that morning returned to Argentina. As it turns out, not only is the Buquebus record MIA, but it seems that Migraciones has also misplaced my tarjeta de ingreso, a little piece of paper that serves as physical proof of one's entry into the country.

The second employee states that he is waiting for approval from Buenos Aires to manually enter my arrival data into the computer. He tells me not to worry; he assures me that everything will get straightened out – that it has to get straightened out. Just sit tight. I make an about-face and trudge to the back row of seats with Daniel.

A steady stream of Bolivians, a pack of Senegalese, a Russian couple, a young German woman, a pair of Asians, a smattering of Argentines and goodness knows how many other nationalities file past us as we await word from some pencil pusher in Capital Federal.

Bonus: there are no Colombian ex-convicts chatting me up this time 'round.

A family of Bolivians entertains a baby with spiky, jet-black hair using a toy in the shape of a silver banana, while a porteño tries to keep his rambunctious little girl occupied by pointing to a political poster plastered to the wall. The father tells us he took advantage of the fact that he was in Mar del Plata on vacation to come to Migraciones here instead of back home in the capital. He describes the immigration office in Buenos Aires as a "nightmare" with people "pissing themselves" as they wait in line. Fortunately, no one here is suffering from incontinence, and it it's all very orderly and civil, just slow as molasses (in January? No, make that July).

At one point I glance up at the portrait of Mother Theresa hanging to my right – even she looks bored. I ask her to help me; I'm not Catholic, but I figure it can't hurt. I then have a sudden revelation about the rationale for religious iconography in Argentine government offices.

With the office virtually empty, the doors about to close at 3pm and nothing yet resolved, the second employee beckons us over to deliver the news: my problem will have to be revisited tomorrow. He jots down our phone number and promises to call when he gets word from the powers that be.

Three days and 12 phone calls later (every single one initiated by us), the data finally shows up in the computer. We pop across the bridge to Quequén, and with the assistance of the immigration officer at the Prefectura Naval, I have everything taken care of in just 45 minutes. Well, four days and 45 minutes.

Read More......

Getting Ready for the Honeymoon

Before you get too excited, I'm not talking about that kind of honeymoon. I'm referring to the honeymoon stage of culture shock, a phenomenon that all immigrants and expats experience as they begin their lives in a new country.

"Culture shock occurs when our '...cultural clues, the signs and symbols which guide social interaction, are stripped away. ...A difficult part of this process for adults is the experience of feeling like children again, of not knowing instinctively the "right" thing to do' (Piet-Pelon & Hornby, 1992, p.2)." [1]

Various sources describe the stages of culture shock using different terms, but the general consensus goes something like this:

During the honeymoon stage, everything is rainbows, puppies, butterflies, sunshine and bubbles. After that, it all goes to hell in a handbasket. But fear not! There is a light at the end of the proverbial tunnel! In the final stage, described as the recovery phase or at-ease-at-last phase by Losses in Translation, you will find your inner zen:

"You have now understood that there are different ways to live your life and that no way is really better than another, just different. Finally, you have become comfortable in the new place – it's not so bad. Most importantly, your sense of humour will have returned and you find you are able to look at yourself and laugh."

Well, Amen to that!

I read a lot of tips online about how to deal with the transition, and I can tell you that all advice is not created equal. Click here for some well-thought-out and helpful tips from Losses In Translation on how to handle culture shock. In the meantime, I'll be packing my bags for the honeymoon.

Sources:
[1] Dealing with Culture Shock

Read More......

The Morning After

In the days leading up to the presidential election, a few acquaintances had the nerve to ask me, "Are you going to vote? Why bother if you're moving to Argentina?"

I balked at the preposterous and rather offensive notion that I would stop caring about the direction and leadership of my country just because I'll live outside its borders. I also found it hard to believe that someone would think that policy decisions made in the U.S. would have no repercussions for me living abroad. No matter where life takes me, no matter where I rest my head at night, I'll always be American. I'll always have a stake in the fate of this country.

While on vacation in Argentina, I was floored by the number of Argentines who wanted to discuss the election and who I was voting for. In Argentina, voting is compulsory, and though not mandated by law here in the U.S., I felt obligated to make the effort to participate in a decision that has so much impact. If Argentines take that much interest in our election, shouldn't I, as an American?

And now here we are, the morning after. The votes have been tallied, and a winner has been proclaimed. Today is a proud day, a special day, because our country succeeded in doing something I wasn't sure we could do: we, as a people, elected a black man to lead us. Fellow blogger Jackson Bliss writes poignantly about this turning point in our nation's history. But beyond the issue of race, we voted for change, for a new direction for the United States. Only time will tell if President-Elect Obama is prepared to face the weighty challenges ahead. Without question, he is inheriting a broken country, and I pray that he has the leadership and know-how to fix it.

I'll be watching from afar, Mr. Obama, and I won't be the only one. The global community wants to believe in us again, as discussed in The New York Times article "The Promise - For Many Abroad, an Ideal Renewed." People across the globe are counting on you to restore honor, dignity and true diplomacy to the White House after your predecessor just about stomped those ideals into oblivion. Please don't let us down.

Read More......

Friends & Strangers

"Strangers are just friends waiting to happen." – Rod McKuen, Looking for a Friend

When it comes to friendships, I've always been a big believer in quality over quantity. I've known my best friend, Jen, since the 8th grade (although it wasn't until 9th grade that I decided I liked her!). Over the years there have been ups and downs, as with most friendships, but I would venture to say that we are closer than ever at this point in our lives.

When I first broke the news to Jen that I would be moving to Argentina, she seemed a bit incredulous. She looked at me dejectedly and asked, "But you'll be coming back, right?" I'd recently returned from a four-month stay in Argentina, and we both missed spending time with each other face-to-face. Although neither of us acknowledged it aloud, we both knew that our friendship would be challenged by the 5,500 miles that would some day separate us.

As an expat, I know that in reality the challenge will be two-fold: maintaining my relationships with family and friends back in the U.S. while forging new relationships in Argentina. I have always been an outgoing and sociable person, but building a a new circle of friends in a foreign country will definitely test my mettle. I am extremely fortunate to have the love and support of my boyfriend, Daniel, and his family in Argentina, but those relationships don't replace the need and desire for friendships with other women my age.

Perhaps I am worrying prematurely since I won't be moving abroad for at least a year, yet as time passes and I inch towards making the great leap, these sorts of fears are unavoidable (and normal I suppose). Once in Argentina, I'll just have to focus on turning strangers into friends while ensuring that I don't become a stranger to the friends I already have.

Read More......