¡Hola! I'm Katie. Welcome to my expat journey from the suburbs of Philadelphia to Necochea, Argentina. My heart led me to a small, seaside city in the province of Buenos Aires, where I relocated seven years ago to be with my better half. Join me as I discover the joys, difficulties and frustrations of picking up and moving a world away. I'll also share my musings and reflections on Argentine culture, food and current events from the perspective of an extranjera.
The Necochea Tourism Board (ENTUR) is now offering guided bus tours of Necochea and neighboring Quequén. The three-hour sightseeing tour highlights the two cities' natural, historical and cultural attractions such as Plaza Dardo Rocha, the Quequén River, Hipólito Yrigoyen Bridge (known as the Puente Colgante), historic homes including Casa Carballido, Villa Maris, Casa Güiraldes, and Chalet Astelarra, the Falkland Islands War Memorial, the Quequén Lighthouse, the port, the casino, area beaches, Miguel Lillo Park, and more.
This is a great opportunity to see the city, especially if you're visiting without a car!
Cost: $45 pesos per person Schedule: Saturdays, 2:30pm to 5:30pm and Sundays,10:30am to 1:30pm Starting point: Tourist Information Office (OINTUR), Avenida 2 and 79, Necochea
For more information or to book a tour, contact:
Tourist Information Office (OINTUR), Avenida 2 and 79, Necochea Phone: (02262) 43-8333 or (02262) 42-5983 Email: ointur@necochea.tur.ar
With access to the sea, a major river, an extensive pine forest, and undulating dunes, Necochea and neighboring Quequén offer tons of exciting activities for visitors with a taste for adventure.
If you're itching to do more than just work on your tan while visiting the area, check out the following companies and organizations dedicated to adventure sports/extreme sports in Necochea and Quequén. Please keep in mind that many of these outfits are small operations without their own websites or year-round locations. Most are active only in high-season [late December through February]. Details such as phone numbers may change without notice.
Surfing/Bodyboarding Quequén Surf Club at Monte Pasubio Surf Camp Calle 502 Nº 1160 (at intersection of Calle 529), Quequén Phone: (02262) 45-1482 // (02262) 15 56-7110 [Monte Pasubio] Phone: (02262) 49-3114 [Quequén Surf Club]
Classes and equipment rental, Friday-Sunday: 8 am-8 pm
Rafting/Kayaking (River and Sea) Mundo Bonito Phone: (02262) 15 65-8998 / (02262) 15 61-3910
Kayak rental at Cabañas Río Quequén Calle 22 and Ribera, Necochea Phone: (02262) 42-8068
Surf Kayaking Escuela de Kayak-surf Av. 2 and Calle 71, Necochea
Paradiso Escuela de Buceo Calle 32 Nº 4976, Necochea Phone: (02262) 42-9133 / (02262) 15 51-7301
Horseback Riding Av. 10 and Av. de los Eucaliptos, Parque Miguel Lillo, Necochea
In addition to the activities mentioned above, opportunities exist in Necochea and Quequén to participate in windsurfing, kitesurfing, motorized paragliding, parasailing, jet skiing, banana boat rides, waterskiing, canoeing, and sandboarding. Many of the balnearios [beach clubs] along Avenida 2 in Necochea can help you book these activities, or you can visit one of the tourist information offices for more details.
Tourist Information Offices (ENTUR - Ente de Necochea de Turismo) » ENTUR's Main Office at the Casino Complex, Av. 2 and 91, Necochea » Av. 79 and 2, Necochea » Bus Terminal, Av. Jesuita Cardiel [Ruta 86] and Av. 58, Necochea » Calles 502 and 519, Plaza 3 de agosto, Quequén
The Feria de las Colectividades, Necochea's annual multicultural festival, celebrates the various immigrant groups that have helped shape our city. The three-day festival takes place at the end of January in Parque Miguel Lillo and features stands serving up the gastronomic specialties of each ethnic group, as well as music and dance troupes wearing traditional costumes. The event culminates with a pageant and the crowning of the festival queen.
The following ethnic groups participated in this year's festival: Italians [plus the regions of Basilicata, Calabria and Le Marche], French, Danes, Germans, Spaniards [plus the regions of Andalusia and the Basque Country], Arabs and Greeks. For some reason, the Chileans decided to stay home this year, but they usually set up (a rather popular) stand at the festival too.
This year marks the fourth time I have attended the Feria de las Colectividades. I enjoy the lively music and colorful dress, although what I particularly relish is the opportunity to sample dishes from the various stands. Honestly, it's one of the only times out of the whole year that I have the chance to eat ethnic food (that is, unless I prepare it myself at home). Necochea could really use some dining options beyond typical Argentine fare…
Festivalgoers can purchase these delicacies and more from the food stands: Italy: zeppoli, tiramisu, pizza, piadina, ricotta pie, ciambelline, sfrappe, pizzelle France: blanquette, ratatouille, baguettes, sweet and savory crepes Denmark: assorted cakes, open-faced sandwiches with various fillings, and aquavit Germany: sausages, sauerkraut and beer Spain: tortilla, paella, ham sandwiches, chistorra, pinchos, seafood stew, fried calamari and pork loin Middle East: kibbe, fatay, shawarma and hummus Greece: souvlaki, tiropita, baklava, galaktoboureko Chile: empanadas de pino
Traditional music and dance fill the stage at the Feria de las Colectividades. In addition to local performers, German, Paraguayan, Bolivian, Greek, Russian and Ukrainian folk dance troupes from Olavarría and Buenos Aires entertain the crowd at the festival.
And as the title of the post indicates, you're guaranteed to see a funny hat throughout the course of the night. Tell me, who doesn't enjoy a funny hat or two?
[Last but not least, take a look at this video montage from this year's festival. You can skip to the good stuff by starting at the 0:35-second mark. Please click here if you can't view the embedded video.]
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October 12th marked the 130th anniversary of the founding of Necochea. Along with my chorus, Coro Alta Mira, I participated in the city's parade to celebrate this special date. This year, inclement weather forced the cancellation or postponement of a number of events, but fortunately, this colorful and chaotic display of civic pride went off without a hitch. Most of these photos were snapped before the parade got underway.
[Majorettes preparing to strut their stuff]
[Kids participating in a murga, a street dance troupe backed by percussion]
[Coro Alta Mira with our flags and banner for the Coraliada, the multi-day, international choral event that we organize annually in Necochea]
[Several colectividades (ethnic clubs and organizations) were represented including the Basques (left) and the Calabrians (right).]
And last but not least, it wouldn't be a parade without some gauchos!
On a late winter's afternoon, determined to fight the inertia brought on by the dreary weather, we pile into the car and head out to partake in Argentina's national pastime: drinking mate.
Down by the port in Quequén sits a squat little trailer painted robin's egg blue. It's one of those places that quietly says nothing at all. The owner, a petite, unassuming woman, serves customers in a cramped space no more than a few feet wide. At her back hang three shelves lined with neatly-arranged bags of yerba mate.
Although the faded chalkboard sign touts donuts, fried puff pastry filled with quince paste, and breaded, fried beef cutlets, we will not be distracted from our objective—churros. At this particular moment, there are no other customers at the stand, unless you count the dirty, black mutt waiting behind my mother-in-law Hilda.
Hilda returns with a mix of plain and dulce de leche-stuffed churros to accompany the mate. The aroma of freshly fried dough wafts up from the bag, filling the car.
We continue on to the Escollera Norte, the shorter of a pair of jetties signaling the entrance to the port. My father-in-law Tomás parks the car, angling the vehicle just so on the narrow jetty. In his easy manner, he jokes about us all going for a swim should he pull a bit too close to the edge.
There's a brief silence as we stop to take in the vast expanse of gray ocean before us. Six ships lie in the distance, mere specks on the horizon, each awaiting its turn to enter the port. The battered old dredge boat chugs past, performing its never-ending duty of removing sand and sediment from the mouth of the port.
Hilda prepares the mate slowly, methodically, just as she's done it thousands of times. Meanwhile, I can barely contain my urge to eat one of the churros. The mate begins to make its way around the circle, and the warmth of our conversation and laughter cuts through the dampness and chill in the air. Admittedly, I still haven't learned to appreciate the flavor of mate, especially when served amargo (without sugar) as it's offered today, but I no longer care about the taste. It's about sharing a moment together with my family.
A hardy-looking fellow appears alongside us on the jetty—fishing tackle in hand—hoping for a bite despite the unpleasant weather. He doesn't last long.
Fortified by the churros and a few rounds of mate, Tomás steps out of the car, daring to brave the elements for a few moments. I follow, camera in hand.
We both peer down over the edge of the jetty to observe the water, agitated and frothy, where it meets the enormous rocks below. I giggle as a trio of sea lions bobs up from the depths, and we find ourselves entertained by their antics for some minutes before they head out to sea.
A strange yet familiar haze hangs in the air today. Even when the sun manages to break free from the clouds, its brilliance is veiled, blotted out by the latest plume of volcanic ash belched forth by the Puyehue Volcano in Chile.
The cold breeze off the ocean whips my hair across my face and the camera lens, turning my quest for a few shots into something of a challenge. I finally admit total defeat when, a few minutes later, the camera battery unceremoniously dies. I happily beat a hasty retreat to the car for more chitchat, laughs, and of course, another round of mate.
Necochea, you're now cleared for takeoff. After a two-year service disruption, flights between Buenos Aires and Necochea are slated to resume within the next few weeks. Earlier this month, Necochea's mayor, Daniel Molina, signed an agreement with regional airline LAER [Líneas Aéreas de Entre Ríos] to link Aeroparque "Jorge Newbery" in Buenos Aires with Necochea's municipal airfield.
Each flight will accommodate a maximum of 18 passengers. For the time being, the company plans to offer two flights per day on Mondays and Fridays, every week, but the possibility of Wednesday flights will be considered as well.
Tickets will be sold at a cost of $480 pesos, about US $115 at the current exchange rate.
Flights between Buenos Aires and Necochea have been grounded since March 2009, when regional carrier Sol Líneas Aéreas suspended service. Visitors and local residents will once again have the quick—albeit pricey—option of air travel to and from Necochea.
Aeródromo de Necochea Address: Ruta 86 Km 12.5, Quequén Phone: (02262) 42-2473
Updated on April 14, 2012: According to an article on NecocheaNet [in Spanish], service to Buenos Aires will finally begin on May 8, 2012. LAER will be offering one flight on Tuesday morning and another on Thursday afternoon. Tickets will be sold at a cost of $550 pesos, one-way.
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I'm pleased to announce that on Friday, March 11th, Daniel and I were married in a civil ceremony in Necochea, Argentina.
Argentine civil ceremonies don't involve much pomp and circumstance. Short and sweet, the ceremony lasted just a few minutes, resembling – more or less – the wedding scene from the Mel Brooks' comedy Spaceballs:
Minister: Do you? Lone Starr: Yes Minister: Do you? Princess Vespa: Yes Minister: GOOD, you're married. KISS HER!
Afterwards, Daniel and I signed our lives away in the presence of our loved ones and General San Martín (that's him on the wall behind Daniel). I must say that we look pretty happy about it though.
In spite of a forecast that called for the possibility of rain, we were blessed with blue skies and sunshine during our ceremony and reception (although Mother Nature really let loose throughout the rest of the weekend, with heavy rains and high winds). The only showers we experienced that morning resulted from the pounds of rice tossed at us by well-wishers.
We celebrated the big day with our closest friends and family from/in Argentina at an intimate reception following the ceremony. We plan to party with my North American relatives and friends later this year when Daniel and I head to the States for our honeymoon.
My friend and photographer Elizabeth Lovelace documented our wedding and reception along with a bit of help from my other friend and photographer Beatrice Murch. I say you can't have too many photographers at your wedding (though perhaps Daniel would disagree!). In addition to her photographic duties, Liz [right] also served as a witness at the ceremony together with Daniel's cousin Mery [left].
I'll post more details and photos from the wedding later on, but for now I leave you with some more shots from our special day.
Just over two years ago, I wrote about a website called 360 Cities that features fantastic panoramic photos of cities all over the world. At the time, the site boasted a number of images of Buenos Aires, but the rest of Argentina was grossly underrepresented. The image gallery has grown quite a bit in the last couple of years, and there's now a wonderful collection of interactive 360-degree panoramic photos from all over Argentina, including a handful from right here in Necochea.
The following panoramic photo offers a glimpse of Necochea's Escollera Norte (North Jetty), the port, the sea lions, and the stretch of beach known as Playa de los Patos. If you're interested in learning more about the area shown in this photo, take a look at this post about the sights of Puerto Quequén.
As part of the complicated process to obtain permanent residency in Argentina, I must submit a criminal background check from the FBI to Argentine immigration officials. In order to request this document, I had to be fingerprinted at the local police station, a task I conveniently took care of while back visiting the U.S. in August. With ink-stained fingers the order of the day, the fingerprinting process proved a rather messy affair to be sure, although not a terribly complicated one.
Fingerprinting methods – both traditional "ink and roll" and digital – now form part of standard procedures at government and law enforcement agencies around the world. While DNA testing has revolutionized the field of forensics, fingerprint analysis remains one of the most reliable crime-fighting and personal identification tools available to the police. In fact, the use of fingerprints to nab criminals dates back over a century.
But did you know that Argentina – and even more unlikely, my adopted home of Necochea – played a pivotal role in the history of fingerprinting? It all boils down to a good, old-fashioned murder mystery, but first, here's some background.
One of the pioneers of fingerprinting, Juan Vucetich, a Croatian-born police investigator and official who immigrated to Argentina, made a significant contribution to the development of fingerprint science. In 1891, based on work by Sir Francis Galton, Vucetich developed a fingerprint classification and filing system for both criminal justice and civil applications, including an immigrant tracking system. Vucetich's system proved highly useful, when just months following its creation, an Argentine detective employed the new method to solve the very first criminal case in the world using fingerprint evidence, right here in Necochea.
"In the course of one of the most infamous murder cases in late nineteenth-century Argentina, prosecutors obtained in 1892 the world's first criminal conviction based on fingerprint evidence. Immersed in the ghoulish facts of the case, in which two small children were stabbed to death in their beds, the coastal villagers of Necochea in Buenos Aires Province hardly noted this high-water mark of transatlantic science. But it was from here that the first practical applications of fingerprinting burst forth, a vital eddy in the currents of people, ideas, and technologies surging across the Atlantic at the turn of the century.
The case had been initially vexing: no one had seen the crime, and interrogations had yielded contradictory evidence. Amid the gore, however, was a single bloody fingerprint left on a doorjamb. How, short of finding blood on the suspect, could a match be proved?
Several days into the investigation, the detective in charge, Eduardo M. Alvarez, shocked observers with a novel brand of evidence, a method of linking finger marks to police records of known or suspected criminals. He demonstrated a match between the bloody mark and the prints of the children's mother, Francesca Rojas, who promptly confessed to the crime."
Vucetich went on to publish a book outlining his methods entitled Dactiloscopía Comparada (Comparative Dactyloscopy), and his fingerprinting classification system eventually gained acceptance throughout Latin America and Europe. The Vucetich system is still in use today, primarily in South America.
If you're interested in learning more about the history of fingerprinting, click here for information from Interpol.
Random side note: "Tocarel piano/pianito" is a slang way of saying "to be fingerprinted" in Spanish (literally "to play the [little] piano," as the action of being fingerprinted bears resemblance to tickling the ivories.)
With summer right around the corner, Necochea's 40 miles (64 km) of beaches will soon be teeming with umbrella-wielding, mate-drinking, sun-worshipping tourists and residents alike. The area is graced with some of Argentina's most ample beaches, in some spots up to almost 1,000 feet (300 m) wide. The following beaches constitute the most popular spots for enjoying the sun and surf in both Necochea and neighboring Quequén.
Removed from the hub of tourist activity in the downtown area, Las Grutas lies about six miles (10 km) south of the heart of Necochea. The many small caves that dot the cliffs along the shoreline in this area gave rise to its name, since Las Grutas means "The Grottoes." Poking around the rocky alcoves provides good entertainment, and friends and families often huddle inside the caves to drink mate.
Necochea's downtown beaches boast fine sand, easy access and plenty of services for beachgoers. Beach clubs known as balnearios line this stretch of sand that borders Avenida 2. These clubs offer a variety of services including umbrella and cabana rentals, restaurants, snack bars, volleyball courts, etc. While the downtown beaches provide the most in the way of amenities, they are also the most crowded (though nowhere near as packed as the beaches in Mar del Plata, for example).
This stretch of beach located in Necochea, adjacent to the Escollera Sur, offers easy access to the jetty for those who would rather go fishing than work on their tans. Visitors can also check out the sea lion colony that makes its home on the other side of the jetty. Though still somewhat centrally-located, this beach never gets too crowded, but it doesn't offer much in the way of services.
Popular with surfers and sunbathers, this stretch of beach in Quequén gets my vote as the best spot in the area to catch some rays and play in the frothy waves of the Atlantic. Plop down on a towel or in a chair on the broad, sandy beach, and watch the surfers ride the waves against the backdrop of the jetties and the port. Monte Pasuvio features a couple of small beach clubs that offer umbrella and cabana rentals and a bite to eat.
This beach received its name from the wreckage of the Italian steamship Monte Pasuvio, which shipwrecked in the midst of a terrible storm on April 1, 1924. The ship's propeller and a portion of the hull remain visible amid the breaking waves.
The rusted-out, hulking remains of the Pesuarsa II, a mysterious-looking ship that lies stranded on the coast, easily lay claim to the most recognizable symbol of Bahía de los Vientos. The rocky beaches and cliffs in this area don't exactly lend themselves to sunbathing and swimming, but you're sure to find plenty of tourists snapping photos, examining the wreckage of the former fishing vessel, and hunting for shells and pebbles.
Just six miles (10 km) north of Quequén, you'll find yourself in the aptly named Costa Bonita ["Pretty Coast"]. This spot lies a bit further off the beaten path, so even in high season it maintains a sense of tranquility. The desert-like dunes make for some fun exploration, and beachcombers are sure to find something interesting on this pebble-filled beach. The balcony at Hostería Costa Bonita, one of the few places to stay in the Quequén area, provides a sweeping view of the beaches and Necochea in the distance.
Click here for a map of Necochea and Quequén showing points of interest.
Last year I discovered not one, but two webcams broadcasting live images of Necochea. Sadly, both cameras were taken offline just a few months later.
However, the other day I found out there's a new 24/7 webcam in Necochea with its eye trained on the downtown beaches and Avenida 2, the street that hugs the coast. Things are looking rather quiet at the moment, but as the summer heats up, the beaches will be teeming with activity.
Check out the new Necochea webcam courtesy of Clima Necochea.
October 12th marks not only El Día de la Raza, a day to celebrate Hispanic heritage and Columbus' discovery of the Americas, but it's also the city of Necochea's birthday! In 1881, Ángel Murga founded Necochea, a city of some 75,000 inhabitants located on the Atlantic coast in the province of Buenos Aires.
[That guy on the horse hanging out in the back happens to be the city's namesake, General Mariano Necochea. His statue is located in the city's main square, Plaza Dardo Rocha.]
The festivities to celebrate the founding of the city stretch over three days and include musical entertainment, activities for children, food, stalls with arts and crafts by local artisans, and more food. Did I mention there's food?
[Whole pigs are being roasted as part of the asado popular, a huge community barbecue organized by the city.]
[The art of the asado is not to be rushed. These two asadores (barbecue pit masters) are passing the time with a cigarette and some mate while they keep a watchful eye on the piggies above.]
[Beef rules the day over in this corner of the celebration. The smoke and aromas that waft through the air whet the appetite (and make my eyes water).]
[A pochoclera selling peanuts, popcorn, and cotton candy, plus some kind of snack that bears an odd resemblance to Fruit Loops!]
[Just in case you aren't gut-bustingly full after gorging on barbecued meat, here we have some churros and doughnuts. You're practically assaulted at every turn by a choripán (grilled sausage sandwich), a slice of homemade cake, or an empanada. Thank God photos are fat-free.]
[One of the many folkloric music performances (this is the part where you use your imagination since I didn't take any video).]
I was looking forward to watching the destreza criolla (a display of gaucho skills and horsemanship akin to a rodeo), yet somehow I managed to miss it. The paisanos in their traditional garb always make for a good photo op, don't you think? Well, there's always next year.
[A photo of two criollos that I snapped at last year's celebration]
![Necochea Sightseeing Tours [image courtesy of ENTUR]](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-7TJiaC0Lk7g/UHMRAdXmgLI/AAAAAAAABHM/-I4E3-SUGUc/bus21%25255B6%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 "Necochea Sightseeing Tours [image courtesy of ENTUR]")
![La Guardia [Majorettes] by katiemetz, on Flickr](http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6222/6241945721_51b98c0a78.jpg "La Guardia [Majorettes] by katiemetz, on Flickr")
![Coro Alta Mira [Group Photo] courtesy of María Nelly Merlo](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-SL78yFG6SOw/TpieTfC-mdI/AAAAAAAAA9I/BHtwzPHvO_0/Coro-Alta-Mira---Group-Photo7.jpg?imgmax=800 "Coro Alta Mira [Group Photo] courtesy of María Nelly Merlo")
![Hazy Necochea [Escollera Sur] by katiemetz, on Flickr](http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6074/6110530885_928d555883.jpg "Hazy Necochea [Escollera Sur] by katiemetz, on Flickr")
![Aerial View of the City of Buenos Aires, Argentina by simounef, on Flickr [used under Creative Commons license]](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-JVDUrfjsw44/Tl1Ci3iyxfI/AAAAAAAAA6M/K7Hdipjwh8Y/2372880323_be5a2f3c7d%25255B5%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 "Aerial View of the City of Buenos Aires, Argentina by simounef, on Flickr [used under Creative Commons license]")
![Wedding Bouquet by Elizabeth Lovelace [FotosEli]](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_nHPS76Hpj2w/TX2XNr5mSiI/AAAAAAAAAyM/Rt7qDtRQUBE/IMG_8912_800x1200%5B6%5D.jpg?imgmax=800 "Wedding Bouquet by Elizabeth Lovelace [FotosEli]")
![Tossing Rice by Elizabeth Lovelace [FotosEli]](http://lh4.ggpht.com/_nHPS76Hpj2w/TX2XPEFOOoI/AAAAAAAAAyQ/p23Ojx7ZMqo/IMG_8991_1200x800%5B12%5D.jpg?imgmax=800 "Tossing Rice by Elizabeth Lovelace [FotosEli]")
![Kiss on the Cheek by Elizabeth Lovelace [FotosEli]](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_nHPS76Hpj2w/TX2XRDvUT5I/AAAAAAAAAyU/fvqiw95zjHY/IMG_9182_753x1200%5B11%5D.jpg?imgmax=800 "Kiss on the Cheek by Elizabeth Lovelace [FotosEli]")
![Overlooking the River by Elizabeth Lovelace [FotosEli]](http://lh4.ggpht.com/_nHPS76Hpj2w/TX2XSVCxQeI/AAAAAAAAAyY/ma0VOUGEzQM/bench%5B6%5D.jpg?imgmax=800 "Overlooking the River by Elizabeth Lovelace [FotosEli]")
![The Bride and Groom by Elizabeth Lovelace [FotosEli]](http://lh5.ggpht.com/_nHPS76Hpj2w/TX2XTZ42k9I/AAAAAAAAAyc/shOsawMEHPY/IMG_8911_1200x800%5B10%5D.jpg?imgmax=800 "The Bride and Groom by Elizabeth Lovelace [FotosEli]")
![Juan Vucetich [photo used under Creative Commons license]](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Juan_Vucetich_100.jpg "Juan Vucetich [photo used under Creative Commons license]")
![Necochea Sketches by Matt Jones [used with permission of the artist]](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_nHPS76Hpj2w/TNywaCvJqRI/AAAAAAAAArU/yl8Lk1HX37k/NecocheaSketches%5B9%5D.jpg?imgmax=800 "Necochea Sketches by Matt Jones [used with permission of the artist]")
![iSight by Shaylor on Flickr [used under Creative Commons license]](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_nHPS76Hpj2w/TNMtS_m3AFI/AAAAAAAAArI/UrqLKVkCqBM/7615994_b765a69dc4%5B5%5D.jpg?imgmax=800 "iSight by Shaylor on Flickr [used under Creative Commons license]")
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