Foreign Tourists Permitted to Marry in Buenos Aires

Foreign tourists are now allowed to marry in the City of Buenos Aires, thanks to a resolution [full text, in Spanish] passed in May 2012. Both straight and same-sex couples visiting the capital city can get hitched with just a few days' notice. Gay marriage was legalized for Argentine citizens in 2010, and now the right has been extended to tourists as well.

I know this news isn't exactly hot off the presses, but I've received a number of emails from readers seeking information about the possibility of getting married in Argentina as a visitor. The change in the law no doubt makes Buenos Aires a more attractive location for those considering destination weddings, since partners can now be joined in a ceremony that is more than purely symbolic.

Tourists wishing to get married must request an appointment at the Civil Registry Office, which, under the law, must be granted in no more than five days. Couples must present a certified photocopy of their passports with a valid tourist stamp and provide an address, albeit temporary (this can be a hotel or friend or family member's home in Buenos Aires), and the length of their stay. Couples will be married at the Civil Registry Office that corresponds to the temporary address they provided.

In addition to Capital Federal, two tourists can tie the knot in the provinces of Santa Fe, Tierra del Fuego and Buenos Aires.

For information about marriage between a foreigner and an Argentine citizen, please see my post "Getting Married in Argentina."

Have you gotten married in Argentina while on vacation? Tell us about your experience in the comments.

[Photo credit: Genaro | www.orengophotography.com]

Read More......

Worshipping at "The Church of Tango"

During my first two years or so in Argentina, the opportunity to read an English-language book was something of a luxury; however, all that changed in 2012 thanks to my Kindle. I read a number of interesting and engaging stories last year, and I'd like to share my thoughts about one of them, The Church of Tango: a Memoir by Cherie Magnus.

I first met Cherie, a retired librarian and former belly dancer, a few years back when she traveled to Mar del Plata on a visit with her partner Rubén. We had initially connected through our blogs and thought it would be great to meet in real life. Cherie struck me as a joyful person, someone with a true zest for living, an impression that was further strengthened through subsequent meetings. She spoke about her old life in the U.S. in a wistful sort of way, but I chalked that up to standard-issue expat behavior, that is, until I read her book.

I never would have guessed that the vivacious, smiling Cherie I'd come to know had experienced so much loss in her life and, well, just plain bad luck. But there is life after loss. Cherie's story proves that.

Although the title may indicate otherwise, the main focus of this memoir isn't really on the tango. It tells the story of a woman who had built a beautiful life for herself and then watched it all crumble as fate cruelly dealt her one blow after another. Yet, in spite of the death of loved ones, battles with illness, and betrayal, Cherie shows us that even in our most broken moments, we must keep moving forward. By literally putting one foot in front of the other, dance, and more specifically, the tango, gave her the strength to put one foot in front of the other in a metaphorical sense, too. In the hopes of regaining some of what she'd lost, Cherie's journey takes her from Los Angeles to France, then Mexico, and lastly, Buenos Aires. Here she finds solace in the Argentine capital's many milongas (tango dance halls), and she begins to build a new life for herself through the tango.

It's clear to me that Cherie possesses an indomitable spirit, but much like the haunting strains of the tango, I also see in her a touch of melancholy and nostalgia for the past. Perhaps that's why she finally found her home in Buenos Aires.

If 2012 was a difficult year for you, pick up The Church of Tango and be inspired.

Disclosure: While the author did provide a complimentary review copy of this book, the opinions expressed here are strictly my own. This post also contains an affiliate link that helps support this blog.

Read More......

Surreal Video of Buenos Aires

Life in Argentina often feels like a roller coaster ride. Whether or not the director intended to include this subtle metaphor in his short film, these classic scenes of Buenos Aires with a mind-bending twist will leave you breathless, just like a true heart-stopping amusement ride should.

[Click here if you can't view the embedded video.]

Read More......

Flights Resume Between Necochea and Buenos Aires

Necochea, you're now cleared for takeoff. After a two-year service disruption, flights between Buenos Aires and Necochea are slated to resume within the next few weeks. Earlier this month, Necochea's mayor, Daniel Molina, signed an agreement with regional airline LAER [Líneas Aéreas de Entre Ríos] to link Aeroparque "Jorge Newbery" in Buenos Aires with Necochea's municipal airfield.

Each flight will accommodate a maximum of 18 passengers. For the time being, the company plans to offer two flights per day on Mondays and Fridays, every week, but the possibility of Wednesday flights will be considered as well.

Tickets will be sold at a cost of $480 pesos, about US $115 at the current exchange rate.

Flights between Buenos Aires and Necochea have been grounded since March 2009, when regional carrier Sol Líneas Aéreas suspended service. Visitors and local residents will once again have the quick—albeit pricey—option of air travel to and from Necochea.

Aeródromo de Necochea
Address: Ruta 86 Km 12.5, Quequén
Phone: (02262) 42-2473

Sources: Informe Digital and La Tecla [both in Spanish]
[Photo credit: simounef]

---

Updated on April 14, 2012: According to an article on NecocheaNet [in Spanish], service to Buenos Aires will finally begin on May 8, 2012. LAER will be offering one flight on Tuesday morning and another on Thursday afternoon. Tickets will be sold at a cost of $550 pesos, one-way. Read More......

Find Your "Happy Tango" in Buenos Aires

Although a journey to Buenos Aires represents the culmination of a dream for many a tango dancer, the complex world of the city's tango scene, with its various styles and social codes, strikes fear and doubt in the hearts of many first-time visitors. But imagine how those concerns would dissipate if you traveled with a friend—a seasoned, milonga-savvy mentor—who could answer your questions, offer encouragement, and guide you through every step of your tango journey. Happy Tango: Sallycat's Guide to Dancing in Buenos Aires by Sally Blake aims to be just that friend.

After two years of occasional contact online, I finally met Sally in person about six months ago at a get-together hosted by a mutual friend. We chatted effortlessly for some time about life, the universe and everything, and I can tell you that reading Happy Tango feels exactly like sitting down to a conversation with Sally. She's the sort of person who just exudes positive energy, and her love for tango and Buenos Aires is palpable; I see her writing as a faithful reflection of her personality.

I hear Sally's voice—British accent and all—echo in the pages of this book, informing, advising, and sharing her tango-related trials and tribulations, in a friendly, accessible and upbeat tone.

In addition to offering her insights into securing satisfying experiences on the dance floor and dishing up the details on different tango venues and milongas, Sally walks the reader through practical advice regarding transportation, lodging, dining out and shopping in Buenos Aires (including the all-important section on where to find sexy tango shoes!).

As a complement to Happy Tango, you can find updates on the ever-changing world of the milongas, connect with the author through social media, and more at Sally's home on the Internet, Sallycat's Adventures.

So, pick up your new tango friend, give him the once-over and stash him in your suitcase (I promise this particular amigo won't object to that sort of treatment.). You're now ready to head off in search of your own happy tango in Buenos Aires.

[With Happy Tango's author and other tangoing friends (left to right): Cherie Magnus, me, Sally Blake and Tina Ferrari]

Disclosure: While the author did provide a complimentary review copy of this book, the opinions expressed here are strictly my own. This post also contains an affiliate link that helps support this blog.

Read More......

Food and Friends in Buenos Aires

A little over a month ago, I tagged along with my husband on a brief trip to Buenos Aires. Anxious to return to Necochea, Daniel headed home as soon as he finished his business in the capital; however, I stuck around a few extra days to soak up a bit of culture, indulge a few food cravings, and meet up with some friends.

Fortunately, just before Daniel hopped a bus back to Necochea, we were able to take a stroll through the neighborhood of Recoleta and sit down to lunch together. Located just down the street from Recoleta Cemetery, the neighborhood eatery Rodi Bar offers a low-key option in the midst of high-rent Recoleta. You're unlikely to experience a culinary epiphany at Rodi Bar, but you're guaranteed honest, Argentine classics done well and at reasonable prices. Afterward, we relaxed on a bench in Plaza Francia in the shade of a giant gomero, as some energetic pups played fetch nearby with their owners and a man sang and strummed Argentine folk songs on his guitar.

My first night in town, chef and food blogger Dan Perlman invited me to join him for dinner at Cocina Sunae, a closed-door restaurant focused on Southeast Asian cuisine. Christina Sunae, an Asian-American expat, runs this underground resto out of her home located in the quiet residential neighborhood of Colegiales. The beautifully-presented dishes featured ingredients and inspiration from Thailand, Vietnam and the Philippines, infused with both fresh and spicy flavors. Each course hit all the right notes, and this meal drove home just how much I miss Asian cuisine! Dan presents a full write-up of our dining experience  and all the dishes on his blog SaltShaker. I highly recommend dinner at Cocina Sunae, especially if you're an ethnic-food-starved expat like I am.

I stayed at the home of my lovely friend and talented photographer Beatrice Murch and her husband Kragen, who were both guests at our wedding back in March. One night, Beatrice and I took our hunger to Desnivel, a traditional parrilla (steakhouse) in the neighborhood of San Telmo. Desnivel's tired décor, plastic tablecloths and garish fluorescent lighting clearly signal one thing: it's all about the meat. We split an order of provoleta, bife de chorizo and papas fritas a la provenzal. The provoleta could have used a touch more time on the grill, as it didn't turn out as gooey as it should have, but the smoky, slightly-melted cheese tasted wonderful nonetheless. The steak arrived just as we'd ordered it, perfectly a punto (medium). Sprinkled with parsley, garlic and oil, the ample portion of fries was crispy and flavorful. Although Desnivel's waiters have a reputation for being rather gruff, the service proved to be pleasant and efficient. With great food at affordable prices, I'd definitely head back to Desnivel.

I hadn't seen Cherie Magnus of tangocherie since my last visit to Buenos Aires back in January, so we decided to get caught up over lunch one afternoon at Las Violetas in Almagro. Built during the 1920s, this elegant café filled with stained glass windows, dark wood paneling, Italian marble flooring and white-jacketed waiters transported me to another time. Following its declaration as a historic site by the City of Buenos Aires in 1998, Las Violetas underwent a massive restoration. The hard work and investment really shows.

A bit overwhelmed by the extensive lunch menu, I settled on one of the chef's specials: stuffed chicken breast with cider sauce and noisette potatoes. My entrée delivered on taste, but dessert – a rich, warm apple strudel with vanilla ice cream and dulce de leche – won me over in the end. I would love to return to Las Violetas, but next time I'll go for afternoon tea instead of lunch to capitalize on the café's strength: its desserts and pastries.

The following afternoon, I got off the train at the Belgrano C station, where I found myself on the doorstep of Buenos Aires' Chinatown. Allie Lazar, from the irreverent food blog Pick Up The Fork, and I had agreed to meet at her favorite spot for Chinese food, Hong Kong Style.

While waiting for Allie, I happened to bump into Christina Sunae and her husband at Hong Kong Style. The two were surrounded by a number of tantalizing small plates, the sight of which literally made my mouth water. Christina noted that the restaurant is one of the best spots for Asian food in the city and really the only place where you can order dim sum. While chatting, I found out that Christina and her husband have friends in the neighboring city of Quequén, so I hope to see them in my neck of the woods some time. Although the couple graciously invited Allie and I to join them, we left them to finish their meal in peace.

Enticed by the sneak preview of the dim sum menu at Christina's table, Allie and I ordered two types of dim sum (steamed pork and shrimp dumplings) and spring rolls, which turned out to be filled with ground beef and onion (!). The dumplings hit the spot, but the spring rolls, while tasty, were a letdown. In retrospect, I'm not sure why we ordered so little food, but I wish we would have shared at least one more dish. Next time, I'd skip the spring rolls and order another type of dim sum and/or an entrée to share.

After lunch, we zipped past the various hole-in-the-wall shops filled with cheap and cheerful Asian imports for some shopping at a couple of the neighborhood's food markets. The markets of Barrio Chino not only house aisle upon aisle of noodles, condiments, exotic vegetables, and spices – ingredients to make every type of Asian cuisine – but they also contain some of the most sought after imported foods by yanquis. You'll find Heinz ketchup, peanut butter, Dijon mustard, Worcestershire sauce, fancy teas, tahini paste, curry powders, hard taco shells, and all manner of seafood. The Chinese don't discriminate; if they think someone will buy it, they stock it. And buy, I did. With my arms full of purchases and my wallet decidedly empty, Allie and I parted ways after a very enjoyable afternoon.

On my final day in the capital, I lunched at Pasaje Solar, a charming spot in San Telmo, for Beatrice's birthday. I had the opportunity to share the meal with Ande Wanderer of Wander Argentina, Amy Scott of Nomadtopia, and Cate Kelly, all of whom made excellent dining companions. We were initially seated outdoors on the rustic patio under a tangle of angel's trumpet and wisteria vine, but we were forced inside when it began to shower. Thankfully, the vibe indoors felt just as inviting. The menu offered a number of interesting options, and truthfully, everyone's meal looked tempting. I ordered rich and flavorful pumpkin sorrentinos stuffed with walnuts, green onions and mozzarella in a cream sauce. After polishing off this generous portion of pasta, all I had room for was an espresso with a dash of milk to cap off the meal.

Following lunch and great conversation with the ladies, I moseyed up and down Calle Defensa eyeing the wares on display at the mega street fair known as the Feria de San Telmo. I picked up a few nice items including a leather belt, crocheted scarf, and a necklace, all at decent prices. I even scored a beef burrito from a Mexican street vendor named Luis, complete with salsa picante that actually packed a bit of a punch. Disappointingly, the best part of the burrito turned out to be the hot sauce. Buenos Aires, however, is definitely not short on flavor.

[Photo credits: Christina Sunae of Cocina Sunae, jlaceda]

---

Rodi Bar, Vicente López 1900, Recoleta
Cocina Sunae, Colegiales [exact address confirmed at time of reservation]
Hong Kong Style, Montañeses 2149, Barrio Chino, Belgrano
Desnivel, Defensa 855, San Telmo
Las Violetas, Rivadavia 3899, Almagro
Pasaje Solar, Balcarce 1024, San Telmo
Feria de San Telmo, Calle Defensa, San Telmo – Sundays from 10am-5pm

Read More......

Buenos Aires: Merging Past and Present

Inspired by moving wartime images of Leningrad, Russia fused with present-day photos of the city, now known as Saint Petersburg, Argentines Gerardo Soloduja and Jorge Bosch decided to employ a similar technique with photographs of Buenos Aires landmarks. Gerardo, a graphic designer, and Jorge, a photojournalist, created their site Buenos Aires Simultánea [in Spanish] to showcase the modern images that they've meticulously superimposed over vintage ones culled from the city's archives. The stunning effect created allows the viewer to appreciate both past and present at the same time.

Gerardo kindly gave me permission to share the following photos on Seashells and Sunflowers. He also mentioned that he plans to update the site soon with new photos, so keep your eyes peeled for fresh images. Considerable photography and editing skills are required to produce photos like these. Enjoy!

[El Puente Blanco or Puente de los Enamorados // The White Bridge or Lovers' Bridge, El Rosedal]

Located in the picturesque public park known as El Rosedal, the White Bridge or Lovers' Bridge has served as a meeting place for generations of Buenos Aires residents. The bridge spans one of two manmade lakes found within the Bosques de Palermo, a 200-acre (80-hectare) green space that includes El Rosedal.

[Estación Constitución // Constitution Railway Station]

Built by the British-owned company Buenos Aires Great Southern Railway, the original terminal at Plaza Constitución was inaugurated in 1865. The present-day station, completed in the early1930s, features an impressive concourse – one of the largest in the world. Constitution Station once linked the city of Buenos Aires with Necochea and Quequén, bringing trainloads of tourists from the capital to enjoy the area's beaches in summer. Today, the rail line extends no farther than Mar del Plata, 78 miles (125 km) north of Necochea.

[Catedral Metropolitana de Buenos Aires // Metropolitan Cathedral of Buenos Aires]

Argentina's most important Catholic church, the Metropolitan Cathedral of Buenos Aires, occupies a corner of the Plaza de Mayo, in the city's historic center. First erected in 1622, the cathedral has been rebuilt several times over the centuries. The current neoclassical façade – more reminiscent of a Greek temple than a Catholic church – was completed in 1862.

[Photo credits: All images used with the permission of Gerardo Soloduja of Buenos Aires Simultánea]

Read More......

A Long Weekend in Buenos Aires

I played tourist while roaming the city solo, gawking at the Obelisk, perusing the Feria de San Telmo, and wandering in and out of the shops of Once.

I admired the tattered elegance of San Telmo, the neighborhood where I stayed during my visit.

I strolled with my friend Beatrice through Parque Lezama, and we smiled and suppressed a few giggles at the sight of some old folks doing tai chi. The twisting branches of the tipa trees overhead offered protection from the blazing sun that even those of the canine persuasion seemed to appreciate.

I ate traditional Argentine favorites done right at Bar El Federal; a slice of fugazza (onion pizza without cheese) at Güerrín while standing at the bar chatting with strangers; a soggy, disappointing margherita pizza at Siamo Nel Forno; tasty and creative crepes at Lo de Carlitos; and flavorful papas a la huancaina and ceviche at the Peruvian restaurant Mamani.

I discussed the merits of tongue marinated in vinegar with a butcher at the Mercado de San Telmo and sized up the offerings at a Saturday morning market that springs up near the corner of Chile and Balcarce each week.

I sweated (did I mention the stifling heat and humidity in Buenos Aires last week?), necessitating at least two showers per day to remove the layers of perspiration, sunscreen and grime of the city from my skin.

In a city with nearly 40,000 taxis, I managed to hop into the cab of a nutty, wild-eyed driver I first encountered over a year and a half ago, who delivered one of the strangest monologues I'd ever heard, which compared men to different brands of alfajores (Argentine sandwich cookies). I instantly remembered him when he launched into his well-worn, practiced shtick once again.

I enjoyed the company of friends. Over the course of my four-day stay in Buenos Aires, I broke bread with Angela from San Telmo Loft, Deby from TangoSpam, and Fred from SilverStar Transport.

Cherie of Tangocherie invited me to a fantastic asado that she and her partner Rubén hosted at their home. I got to meet Tina from Tina Tangos and Sally from Sallycat's Adventures – two lovely ladies I've known "virtually" for some time but had never had the pleasure of meeting. Cherie wrote up a great post with photos about our get-together.

I even danced tango (badly) for the very first time after a 15-minute lesson from Rubén.

Hey, you only live once, right?

Read More......

Recoleta Cemetery

When I'm trip planning, cemeteries aren't normally the first attractions to hit my itinerary. After all, they're not exactly known for their inviting, upbeat atmosphere. With that said, it's no secret that the best way to get to know a place is to make friendly with the locals, in which case you should set aside time to visit Recoleta Cemetery when you're in Buenos Aires.

El Cementerio de la Recoleta contains more than just a collection of ornate mausoleums; it contains the history of a nation. "In this museum of mortals, the personal ramblings of its inhabitants—famous or obscure—blend inextricably with Argentine history."¹ A map of Recoleta Cemetery reads like a who's who of Argentina's elite: writers, politicians, war heroes, and the filthy, stinkin' rich [pardon the pun].

Without a doubt, the best online resource for information about Recoleta Cemetery in English is a site called AfterLife. For anyone with more than a passing interest in the cemetery, this site is the place to go to read about the symbolism, the history, and the many urban legends surrounding the great figures who are buried there, complete with stunning photography.

If you do visit, I suggest that you take a tour of the cemetery rather than just roaming about aimlessly all by your lonesome. While the sculptures and artwork are easily appreciated on their own, a knowledgeable tour guide will really bring the cemetery and its stories to life [sorry, I just can't help myself]. Oh, and please do more than just walk through the gates, make a beeline for Eva Perón's tomb and then leave; the other residents get offended when you do that.

If armchair travel is more your style, you can take a virtual tour using 360 Cities' panoramic shots of the cemetery including president, educator and writer Domingo Faustino Sarmiento's mausoleum, the beloved Evita's tomb, as well as the interior of Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, the 18th-century church adjacent to the cemetery.

Here's an example of what you'll see as you roam the "streets" of this 15-acre Buenos Aires necropolis.

[Recoleta Cemetery's many angels will watch over you.]

[A virgin lights a candelabrum representing spiritual light and salvation — La Bóveda de Dorrego-Ortiz Basualdo]

[Cenotafio de los Tres Amigos — read about it here.]

[The angel reassures the woman at her side of her place in heaven — La Bóveda de José C. Paz]

[Life among death]

Take a look at more photos from my Recoleta Cemetery set on Flickr.

---

Sources:
[1] AfterLife Read More......

Recognition Long Overdue

Those of you who've been following along may recall that my dad and his wife Deb came for a visit back in October of last year. During their stay in Argentina, we used two services that I feel were worthy of recognition.

Buenos Tours
In October 2008, my dad, stepdad, Daniel and I took a walking tour with Alan Patrick of Buenos Tours, which we considered one of the highlights of our visit.

My dad enjoyed Alan's private walking tour so much that as soon as he bought his plane tickets for Argentina last year, he asked me to book another tour for him and Deb. Alan happened to be unavailable, so he set up my folks on a tour with his fellow guide Jessica, an American expat living and studying in Buenos Aires. I only spoke to Jessica for a few minutes at the tail-end of my parents' tour, but she seemed very friendly. Dad and Deb both commented that Jessica gave a well-paced, engaging, first-rate tour.

I see another tour with Buenos Tours in the future!

Silver Star Transport
I'd also like to mention the excellent car service that we hired to take my parents to the airport. Fred, an American living in Buenos Aires, provides top-quality service through Silver Star Transport. He was punctual and personable, and the Lincoln Town Car he used was quite swanky (and most unusual for Buenos Aires!). He drove safely and with a cool head, which is no small feat when you consider the madness of traffic in the capital (or anywhere else in Argentina for that matter). Fred's prices were a bit higher than other services, but I feel they were an excellent value. I wouldn't hesitate to use Silver Star Transport again when my parents come to town.

[Please note that I'm not receiving any sort of kickback or compensation for recommending these services.]

Read More......

Province of Buenos Aires Says "Chau" to Plastic Bags

In an attempt to cut down on the environmental blight of plastic bags, the provincial legislature of Buenos Aires passed a measure banning the use of environmentally-unfriendly bags in supermarkets. As of October 15, 2009, supermarkets and hypermarkets in the Province of Buenos Aires must use degradable or biodegradable bags. Smaller markets were given an additional year to come into compliance with the law.

A few months back, in preparation for the new law, displays of reusable cloth "Eco-bolsas" sprang up at our local supermarkets with a bit of signage explaining the benefits of using reusable shopping bags. The plastic bag legislation represents an important step forward, and I applaud the modest efforts at raising environmental awareness and promoting green alternatives (even if they are partially [or completely] financially motivated).  

Daniel and I usually bring our reusable cloth shopping bag with us when we run errands around town, and we frequently get funny looks for refusing a plastic bag. It seems that some cashiers have an instinctive reflex to bag even the smallest item, and sometimes they just won't take "no" for answer. At least now when customers are bullied into accepting a grocery bag, they'll receive a more environmentally-sound option at the supermarket checkout thanks to the new law.

Unfortunately, litter and waste management are real problems here in Argentina. While the issue of plastic bags may seem like a drop in the bucket in comparison to the country's larger problem of trash and what to do with it, it's promising to see that the province is taking a step toward a greener Argentina.

[Photo credit: ThreadBeaur]

Read More......

Lunfardo: Slang from the Streets of Buenos Aires

Argentine Spanish is peppered with words and phrases from Lunfardo, a vast slang vocabulary developed on the streets of Buenos Aires around the turn of the 20^th century. Criminals and other shady characters looking to keep their activities under wraps developed Lunfardo by borrowing and twisting words from the melting pot of languages that surrounded them, allowing them to communicate with each other even in the presence of the police or prison guards. While initially used by the more unsavory element of Argentine society, Lunfardo was later popularized through the tango, literary art forms, and upwardly mobile immigrants and has become a part of everyday, informal speech regardless of social class. Today, the use of Lunfardo is most prevalent in Argentina (particularly in and around Buenos Aires) and Uruguay, though some elements have been adopted by neighboring countries such as Chile and Paraguay.

Lunfardo was largely a product of the great wave of European immigration to Argentina that took place from the late 1800s through the mid-1900s. The huge influx of immigrants hailing from Spain, Italy and France, many of whom spoke non-standard regional dialects or languages, greatly influenced the development of Lunfardo. Certain words also arrived via the gauchos of Argentina’s interior as well as native groups like the Guaraní, Quechua and Mapuche.

One of the features of Lunfardo is the use of vesre, a form of wordplay that involves reversing the order of syllables in a word. The term "vesre" is derived from the Spanish word "revés" (in reverse/backwards). Examples of vesre include café → feca (coffee), pantalones → lompa (a truncated form of the word for pants) and hotel → telo (a pay-by-the-hour love motel).

In addition to vesre, Lunfardo also employs words based on metaphors such as tumbero, a slang term for "convict" that originates from the Spanish word "tumba" meaning grave. Another example is the word "campana" (Spanish for "bell"), which describes the lookout man ready to sound the alarm should the police suddenly arrive on the scene.

For those of you looking to add a splash of color to your Spanish, the following websites have compiled an extensive list of Lunfardo words and phrases: Argentine Spanish Slang Dictionary, Wally's Dictionary of Argentine Colloquialism and Culture and Diccionario de Lunfardo.

This post was originally written for Transpanish, a translation blog focusing on the Spanish language and Hispanic culture.

Read More......

Getting to Necochea by Bus, Plane or Car

Here are some tips for traveling between Buenos Aires [Capital Federal] and Necochea, Argentina.

By Bus to/from Retiro Station in Buenos Aires

Long-distance buses in Argentina are a comfortable and economical choice for travel. Nighttime buses leave from Retiro Bus Station [Terminal de Ómnibus] in Buenos Aires and arrive at the bus station in Necochea after a journey of seven to eight hours. Buses operating on a daytime schedule take considerably longer, so it's more sensible to travel at night.

Ticket prices hover around $275-$300 pesos per person, one-way, depending on the company and the type of seat you choose [semi-cama, cama-ejecutivo, suite]. Read a nice description of the different seat classes available here.

The following companies provide bus service between Necochea and Buenos Aires [Note: phone numbers are for the local offices in Necochea and main offices in Buenos Aires, respectively]:

Cóndor-Estrella Phone: (02262) 42-2120/(011) 4313-1700
Plusmar Phone: (02262) 52-5553/0-800 -222-PLUSMAR
El Rápido Phone: (02262) 42-7293/(011) 4514-4899

In addition to the information available on each company's website, you can also check timetables and compare prices on the site Plataforma 10.

Most days it's not necessary to purchase tickets in advance; however, if you're traveling on a holiday or a weekend, particularly during the summer, it's important to buy your tickets ahead of time. You can purchase tickets in Buenos Aires at Retiro Bus Station or at Necochea's bus terminal:

Necochea Terminal de Ómnibus
Address: Avenida Jesuita Cardiel [Ruta 86] y Avenida 58, Necochea
Phone: (02262) 42-2470

By Bus to/from Ezeiza International Airport in Buenos Aires

If you need to travel between Necochea and the international airport [Ministro Pistarini/Ezeiza] in Buenos Aires, another solid option lies with the bus company Manuel Tienda León. Unfortunately, you'll have to start or end your bus journey in Mar del Plata rather than Necochea, but the advantage of Tienda León is that you'll be taken directly to/from the airport, rather than having to negotiate a transfer at Retiro Bus Station with all your luggage. A one-way ticket between Mar del Plata and Ezeiza International Airport currently runs $330 pesos, and it can be purchased online or at Tienda León's offices in Mar del Plata, Ezeiza or at select travel agencies in Necochea.

For the Necochea-Mar del Plata leg of your journey, you can take a bus or remis [shared car service] between the two cities for about $50 pesos one-way.

By Plane

Regional airline LAER now offers twice-weekly flights between Aeroparque "Jorge Newbery" in Buenos Aires and Necochea. I would recommend an email or phone call to verify flight availability if you're considering this option.

Aeródromo de Necochea
Address: Ruta 86 Km 12.5, Quequén
Phone: (02262) 42-2473

Though less convenient, it's also possible to take a bus or remis to Mar del Plata and catch a flight from there to Buenos Aires. Aerolíneas Argentina and LADE operate flights several times a week from Mar del Plata to Aeroparque in Buenos Aires.

By Car

If you're driving to Necochea from the capital, expect to spend at least 5 ½ hours traveling between the two cities. Build in extra travel time for unforeseen circumstances such as demonstrators blocking the highway. And be careful out there—Argentines aren't the safest drivers.

By Train

There is currently no train service between Buenos Aires and Necochea. Trains do run from Buenos Aires to Mar del Plata via Estación Constitución [Constitution Railway Station], but anecdotal evidence suggests that the trains attract criminal activity and often experience significant delays.

[Prices and information updated on January 28, 2013]

Read More......

Vintage Travelogue Film: Romantic Argentina

Continuing with the vintage Argentina theme that I started a while back, I thought it was high time I showed one of them thar fancy moving pictures!

Would you like a glimpse of what life was like in Buenos Aires in the 1930s? Grab a mate, dim the lights, congratulate me on my 100th post (yes, this one!), and get ready for a visit to "the Argentine."

I now present Romantic Argentina. Please click here if you can't view the embedded video.

[Hat tip to Cherie at Tango Cherie]

Read More......

The Parks of Palermo: El Rosedal

During my recent jaunt to Buenos Aires, I had a chance to spend a delightful Sunday afternoon at El Rosedal (the Rose Garden), one of the beautiful parks in the barrio of Palermo. El Rosedal forms part of the 62-acre Parque Tres de Febrero, an oasis of green and relative calm amidst the hustle and bustle of the city.

Though winter is nearly upon us here in the southern hemisphere, there were still many lovely roses in bloom as well as a few butterflies flitting about. The holiday weekend preceding El Día de la Patria combined with unseasonably warm temperatures brought many families out to enjoy a bit of sunshine and fresh air.

As I sat beneath an expansive pergola enjoying the picnic lunch I'd brought with me, couples floated past in colorful paddleboats on the artificial lake known as the Lago de Palermo. Children attempted to scale a massive gomero (rubber tree), as their parents looked on from a few feet away, cameras poised to catch just the right moment. An old man who ambled by with a cane paused to cup a frilly musk rose in his hand and inhale the heady aroma.

The park's atmosphere was vibrant and alive, and I was glad I made time for a visit. After all, we should all stop and smell the roses once in a while.

Here are a few of my favorite shots from El Rosedal:

[A hungry butterfly snacking on some salvia nectar]

[Deep pink roses in full bloom]

[An autumn afternoon in Buenos Aires]

[One of the many benches where you can sit and take it all in]

[The beauty of the rose unfolds.]

If you'd like to see more photos of Buenos Aires' best-loved rose garden, view my El Rosedal set on Flickr.

Read More......

Tango: Milonga Style

Tango. For many people, the mention of this iconic Argentine dance conjures up images of a man with slicked-back hair stalking across the dance floor, his partner poured into a slinky dress with a rose clenched between her teeth. Or perhaps that famous scene from "Scent of a Woman" comes to mind.

The tango danced in the milongas (tango dance halls) of Buenos Aires bears little resemblance to what you've seen in the movies, but I assure you that it's no less soulful and engaging to watch.

I was lucky to receive an invitation to attend a milonga from two tango-dancing Aussies that I met at my friend Deby's birthday party. Sharon, Rosa and I made our way to "El Beso" after the party, where I had a chance to see what Argentine tango is all about.

Upon arrival at El Beso, I was seated at a table in the back row, as the most desirable seats up front are reserved for regulars. Since there was no tango dancing in my future, a spot up against the wall was no big deal; however, for those looking for an invitation to the dance floor, it's much harder to attract another dancer's attention from the back of the room.

When I inquired about taking photos, the milonga organizer requested that I be very discreet and limit myself to shots of the crowd in general as opposed to specific couples. She explained that married men and women often come to the milongas alone to dance without the knowledge of their spouses, and she didn't want to be responsible for any divorces. In fact, every time she passed by my table and glanced at my camera, she would knit her brows and exclaim, "¡No quiero divorcios! ¡No quiero divorcios!"

Honestly, she didn't have much to worry about as the dim lighting and movement made picture-taking near impossible. I did manage a bit of video (I apologize for the less-than-stellar quality), but please don't scrutinize the faces of the dancers. ¡No quiero divorcios!

Tango Dancing at "El Beso," Buenos Aires, Argentina

Please click here if you can't see the video.

I had a great time listening to the music, watching the dancers, and learning a bit about the códigos of tango (tango etiquette in the milonga) from Rosa and Sharon.

If you'd like to read more about the intriguing world of tango in Buenos Aires, check out TangoSpam: La Vida con Deby or tangocherie.

Read More......

Field Trip to Buenos Aires, Part 2

As soon as I confirmed that I was traveling to Buenos Aires, I emailed my friend Deby to see if she was available to get together. As it turned out, Deby was also celebrating her birthday last weekend, and she invited me to take part in the festivities.

I got to know Deby through her blog, which chronicles her life in Buenos Aires. Since Deby is a tanguera (tango dancer), many of her posts focus on the tango social scene in the milongas (tango dance halls), which I find fascinating since I'm completely unfamiliar with the world of tango. She is spunky and vivacious, and her personality really comes through in her writing.

When I arrived on Friday, I gave Deby a buzz and we got together for lunch. During the course of our conversation, I mentioned that I would like to go to Barrio Chino (Chinatown), and Deby kindly offered to accompany me there.

She led me to a store called Casa China, filled to the brim with spices, sauces, noodles, teas and various imported products like Dijon mustard, Heinz ketchup, and peanut butter that are difficult to find elsewhere. Though the place was heavenly, I somehow managed to keep my spending in check. I bought a few spices, soy sauce, and brown sugar, and I left Barrio Chino with a smile on my face.

On Saturday night, Deby invited me to have dinner with her and a few other friends at a Korean restaurant. I had not eaten Asian food in months, so I was very excited at the prospect of going to this restaurant.

Deby, her friend Deirdre, and I shared a cab to the restaurant, and the three of us were thoroughly entertained by our conversation with the taxi driver. He couldn't wrap his head around the fact that we were looking forward to eating at a Korean restaurant, where surely the main course would be a dish of dog or cat. He went on and on about Koreans and their cuisine for the entire cab ride, culminating his rant with the following statement: "There are only two things I fear in this world: gays and Koreans." At this point, Deby, Deirdre and I were roaring with laughter, but this guy was dead serious.

We hopped out of the cab, and upon entering the restaurant we found three more of Deby's friends waiting for us. I was pleasantly surprised to find Fred there, another American that I have gotten to know through my blog.

I had a great time trading stories with everyone, and the food—a fusion of Japanese and Korean—was fresh and delicious. All I can say is, if I ate cat at that restaurant, it was the best damn cat I ever ate.

The next evening was Deby's birthday party at her apartment in Palermo. When I first arrived I did not know anyone there except for Deby, but I easily struck up conversation with the other guests, many of whom know Deby through tango. I was introduced to two Australian women, Sharon and Rosa, and they invited me to go to a milonga after Deby's party (more about that in my next post!).

Later in the evening, I did get a chance to meet Sammy, a chef, website designer, and writer who I'd come to know through his very helpful website called Good Morning Buenos Aires. I also got to know Gina, whose reputation as an amazing baker of all things yummy preceded her. The chocolate cake she brought with her was divine.

A huge thank you to Deby for showing me such a good time! I'll leave you all with a few photos from the party.

[Alicia and me on Deby's balcony]

[The birthday girl]

[The view from the balcony of Deby's apartment. I love the fog!]

Read More......

Field Trip to Buenos Aires, Part 1

Since Americans in these parts are few and far between, I have been cultivating friendships online, mostly with expats living in the capital. This past weekend I finally made good on my promise to head up to Buenos Aires to meet with some of the people I have come to know through blogging and Facebook. 

My friend Beatrice not only invited me to Buenos Aires to celebrate her birthday, but she also offered me a place to stay for the entire four-day weekend! 

The birthday party was hosted in a beautiful apartment in the barrio of San Telmo, and I had an excellent time meeting new people, chatting, and of course, enjoying all of the delicious food. I even got to meet Frank, another online acquaintance who runs his own bakery in Buenos Aires. I tasted some of his cookies, and now I know why is business is so successful!

Beatrice wrote all about the party here on her personal blog, and she posted party pics here. [By the way, she also has an informative blog about the Trees of Buenos Aires with lovely photos!]

Beatrice and her husband Kragen had also been invited to a going-away party for another Buenos Aires blogger, Layne, and I got to tag along. Layne writes an excellent food blog called Go Where the Taxista Takes You. She's moving from Buenos Aires to New York City to continue her taxi/culinary adventures there, but I'm glad I had an opportunity to meet her.

Since Beatrice and I share an interest in photography, we capped off my stay in Buenos Aires with a photo safari. Despite the clouds and a bit of rain, I did capture some nice shots.

[Please click here if you can't view the slideshow.]

Beatrice and Kragen were great hosts, and I can't thank them enough for their hospitality. I look forward to seeing them again the next time I'm in town. 

My weekend in Buenos Aires was jam-packed – stay tuned for my adventures with Deby and tales from my very first milonga!

Read More......

A New Way to Look at Buenos Aires

[Plaza de Mayo in Buenos Aires]

Has the economy put a crimp in your vacation plans? Perhaps you're an armchair traveler? Well, if you'd prefer to explore the charms of Buenos Aires from the comfort of your living room, then I urge you to check out the superb panoramic photography of 360 Cities. The amazing, high-resolution images really pull you into the scene in a way that a traditional photo cannot. Should you tire of Buenos Aires (!), there are numerous other cities around the world available for virtual exploration.

Thanks to Taos Turner over at The Argentine Post for sharing!

Read More......

Flights from Buenos Aires to Necochea?

Although there are extensive long-distance bus routes connecting points within the province of Buenos Aires, limited options exist for travelers wishing to reach destinations by air. According to an article [in Spanish] on Mensajeroweb, all of that may be about to change. The provincial government of Buenos Aires announced an initiative that makes subsidies available for new flights from the capital to locations around the province.

On November 17th, Sol Líneas Aéreas began operating flights from Aeroparque "Jorge Newbery" to Tandil. The airline also proposed additional routes to Necochea and Villa Gesell, subject to a government feasibility study.

A direct flight from Buenos Aires to Necochea would definitely appeal to my family members coming to visit from the States. Let's face it—after almost 11 hours on a plane, the prospect of a 5 1/2-hour car ride or up to eight hours on a bus just isn't that exciting.

[Update: Although Sol Líneas Aéreas did operate flights to Necochea for a brief period of time, service was suspended indefinitely in March 2009. Regional carrier LAER now offers flights between Buenos Aires and Necochea.]

Read More......